slipped to weekend warrio

Bumped with lower price.

Bump for new season.

Bump for lower price and updated description

Bump for lower price and updated description.

I believe it is a 2015-16. I got it as a warranty replacement summer, 2016. https://www.evo.com/outlet/snowboards/arbor-a-frame-snowboard-2015

Ridden less than 20-days. Picked up skiing, winter 2016-17. Used this board when trying to keep up with friends on boards. Combination of my subscribing to "tools not jewels" view and local resort being low elevation led to board picking up some scratches and a little edge rash. Never base-ground or edges sharpened, so plenty of material left. Stored off season with protective coat of wax.

Got this board as new old stock locally in 2015. I would estimate < 30 days on this board. Picked up skiing, winter 2016-17. Used this board only when too much powder for me to deal with on skis. Just like stated in my ad for the A-Frame, a combination of my subscribing to a "tools not jewels" view and local resort being low elevation led to board picking up some scratches and a little edge rash. Never base-ground (original structure still visible) or edges sharpened, so plenty of material left. Stored off season with protective coat of wax as pictured. I am 6'3", 200# with size 12 boots. Love this board but with tapper it is too narrow under back foot. Awesome board!

Thanks Deuxdiesel. I am interested and just sent you a PM.

I am searching for binding riser plates. Plamer PLS, Bomber Power Plates, other?

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This is a complete pair, correct? If so, I will take them.

Thanks for the warning. I am glad that you spoke up, @)lamby! I have no interest in risking a broken binding again. I will donate the bindings back to the store today--only $18 lost to the thriftstore and they support good causes, so no harm there. An active life is risky enough even with equipment you can trust.

I got one step closer today by picking up some bindings. Older burtons. They look like they're from the mid-90s (board is a green Alp71). @Aracan, thanks for the tip on bail bins being flexier--makes sense but I wouldn't have put it together had you not commented. The board and bindings look pretty sun cooked. However it looks like all the critical parts of the bindings are metal, except the toe clips (they look ok) and mounting disks (coincidentally I stumbled on some new ones today). Please, speak up if you see I'm over looking a safety hazard here! The new disks were left overs from a friends step-on bindings along with the binding bag. So, I have new disks and a slick way to store the bindings until I find boots. I'm still a little worried about the disks even though they are new since they are plastic. I shattered a rear burton disk a few years ago. Unfortunately the board is no good as the base is delaminating from the sun. Getting closer

This is great. Thanks for the range of responses! Even the contrarian fuelling my waffling tendencies. :),,, but I am pretty sure I am ready to commit. My hold up is my I am blessed with only the AD part of ADHD and have too many leisure interests that, along with outfitting my middle school aged family, limits what I can justify spending on personal gear (recently picked up skiing and snowboarding could atrophy if I don't figure out the right boot set-up the first try). There is no way I can buy unused/new snowboard boots. If I could, I think I would consider a AT ski boot such as the backland I need to know more about the potential used market options for flexible hardboot set-ups. I'm curious about what plate bindings and hard boots, that I might find on the used market, are considered soft. Also, although I have read alot about the subject on these boards and split board forums, I'm dangerously under educated about modifying hardboot hardware and/or shells. Will a stiff boot such as the deeluxe indy surrender to become a "bedroom slipper 122 or 123 Raichle" when the bts with soft springs is applied? Are ther other modification techniques to employ in order to soften stiffer boots? Again any and all input, including ideas about where to source used hardboot gear is, highly appreciated.

I've been consistently and happy lurking here for multi-years because I like thinking about gear and value your opinions since you focus on the art of turning. As yet only have bought and sold rocker 172 tanker (it was too soft and/or I couldn't adapt my style to rocker) I have found myself boot-less going into this season. This is the 1st time since 1988. I am thinking about making the plunge to hardboots, but not for carving (maybe 5-10%), and am asking to gain from your collective wisdom: Is there a budget, hard boot and binding for sub-alpine all mountain riding in soft Oregon snow? I have my eye on used deeluxe indy and burton bindings. The boot sounds too stiff out of the box but can it be modded). Basically, can a budget hardboot set up be made to be a slightly stiffer than a burton driver and ride ex binding set-up? Short prologue: I ride all all resort side/in-bounds (60% trees and 40% poorly grommed) in heavy Oregon powder, chunder, and slop-- even occasional rain as long as its slippery and soft. My boards are: 185 rosignol undertaker, 170 arbor a-frame, and 164(?) Ride decade wide. My stance is pretty crystallized at a little wider than shoulder width with front 18° and back 12°. I'm a pretty aggressive rider (in soft snow) and am 6'3", 210#, and size 12 shoe. I've always had trouble with soft boots. They feel sloppy unless brand new, really tight laces, and binding straps. Last season I blew out 3-year old burton drivers and new old stock Nike zoom vapors. Admittedly, I have always sized down 1-1.5 sizes. Until now, my biggest concern is that the ankle rigidity will facilitate to high of board angles in soft snow (loss of float in turns except at high speed and boot-out). My only experience with hard boots is in '99-2000 when I had raichle 724(#?) boots that I used with a burton e-wire (10-15x) and supermodel 174 (<5x). I don't have many clear memories of those days specifically, but vaguely remember struggling in powder because of excessive high-angle board-tipping, from even slight input. Why was that so hard to write..? I am hoping to get a variety of responses, so any ideas or experience is welcome. Mods, if this fits in a better in all mountain hard booting, feel to move it