Jack M

My friend has a 2000 Coil 172 prototype (almost blank blue topsheet) that I'm sure he'd part with for cheap. I don't know if you meant "quiver" when you said collection, but the E-deck/Wire/Coil is no collector's item.

Yeah Shred, got any good pictures you want to share with the group? Or you can just email them to me.... ;)

has help: http://www.motorcycledaily.com/15april04_methodman.htm Good for Yamaha!

I'd have to vote for using your own bike at a track school. That is, if you like your bike. Just get some frame sliders and don't be a squid. You only <i>think</i> you have an intimate relationship with your bike, until you take it on the track. After your first track day, the next time you go out to the garage to go for a ride, when you open the door and see your baby sitting there, it's like being in high school again... seeing your girlfriend in class monday morning... after you both lost your cherry that weekend!!

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Welcome Center

The E-deck was later renamed the Wire, which was later renamed the Coil. They are all "all-mountain carvers", similar in shape to the Prior 4x4, etc. I believe the Coil was the carviest, since it basically replaced both the Wire and the Alp (freecarve board). Any of these are great for beginner/intermediate carving and all-mtn hardboot riding.

I could, but I'd be lying.

Hey, it's friday and my board is away for the summer. What a crazy woman! She lives on her own special planet. If I were her, I'd practice saying "you want fries with that?" a lot. Ha. I dug that show.

I only hope I'm carving as well in 31 years!!!

It is good to start your carves on the front leg and finish either in the middle or on the rear leg. Probably better for your body too!

You should experiment with cant and lift. Generally it is more comfortable to use toe lift on the front foot, and heel lift on the back foot. At low angles like yours, you will probably also want to use some inward cant. You can do this if you have adjustable bindings like Bomber, Catek, or Phiokka.

How do your two feet bend the entire board into a smooth arc? It can't be done. All you could possibly do is put a kink in the middle of the board, which would be bad for carving.

okay... and what does that do for you? (please say that it tightens the carve radius. go ahead. I dare you. :D )

...how much more she will enjoy an all-mtn carving board like a Burton Coil or Wire, a Prior 4x4, Donek Axis, or Coiler All-Mtn. I'd stay away from an Alp or anything with a square tail at first - not forgiving enough. Has she tried Orthotics? That could be the cure-all. It sounds like she has sensitive feet, in which case orthotics and moldable liners will be wise investments. TD2s wouldn't be wasted on her either, because they allow you to experiment with many different combinations of cant and lift. Actually the board can be your last purchase. Try hardboots on her current board. If she hates it, then you know you don't need to buy another board!

Now that IS entirely possible, because as you say the front of the board is just along for the ride. So the question becomes why do this? Aside from it being a fun little experiment, I can think of no practical application. You're basically sawing your effective edge in half. A better thing to do would be to angulate your body more, tip the whole board up higher, and carve the whole edge. -Jack

I'm quite convinced in my own argument above (surprise surprise!). At this point I'll need to see a picture of your board looking like a mobius strip with your front downhill edge in the snow, your front uphill edge in the air, and your rear uphill edge in the snow, and your rear downhill edge in the air. But I don't think we can argue this further in words. -Jack

The picture of the snowboarder when you mouse over the logo on the opening page of www.sandboard.com is a picture of Jean Nerva from the inside cover of the 1989 Burton catalog. One of the best snowboarding pics ever, imo.

Eric, you're da man, but I'm <i>very</i> skeptical. Just because your tracks overlap doesn't mean that you were carving both edges simultaneously. It just means that you changed edges very quickly - quickly enought that you started carving your downhill edge before your board moved all the way beyond your uphill track. I'd say most advanced carvers leave overlapping tracks. For your tracks NOT to overlap, you'd have to be riding flat for enough time for your board to clear your uphill track. Of course, if you've got pics of your board with both edges carving, I'll eat my hat.

I thought you were saying that forcing your knees together would change the radius of the carve by bending the board more (which we all should know is impossible). That's how I read your post that I quoted above. Otherwise, yes it seems we agree! Also, I should clarify that when I said: "The idea that a rider can somehow manipulate the board to their benefit by moving their knees around is a farce" - I was talking about the myth that you can somehow deform the board in such a way as to improve the carve. Like by jamming your knees together or forcing them apart or whatever. I've even heard it suggested that you can twist the board so much that you can start carving the nose of your downhill edge before the tail of your uphill edge stops carving. Simply untrue. The motions we make with our knees are mainly done to tip the board up on edge faster, and to get our c.o.g. in the right spot. -Jack

Physically impossible. Read this and this.

...are the difference between $thousands in plastic repair/replacement, and a nice conversation piece ("see that little scrape? I got that in turn 3 at Loudon") It's good to be nervous. I was. You probably won't go down then. I didn't. It only takes about 3 laps before the fear of death turns into sheer excitement as you realize that you've only ever really used half your motorcycle, and half your tires.

Actually they don't, and the e-ring is a dampener for the binding. The baseplate is riding on the cant disc. The cant disc is "floating" on the e-ring. The center disc is the only part rigidly mounted to the board. It's job is simply to hold the cant disc down against the e-ring. The cant disc is free to pitch and roll by a small amount. However the "hard" e-ring is intended to provide a rigid feel similar to the TD1.