TimW

If you are a size 27.5 you should definitely not get a 28.5 boot. You should look in the range 26.5 - 27.5. Indicated sizes are normally a 'comfort fit' and quite roomy, many people size down. For UPZ sole lengths are in the table below. I could not find a chart with the Deeluxe sizes (Note: Deeluxe = Raichle, just a new name, changed about 15 years ago)

Thanks for all the feedback! Always great to see how enthusiastic and positive this forum is! @Jack M,He already had a few lessons on softboots, so I missed the opportunity to put him directly on hardboots. But it makes a lot of sense, his ski carving is closer to hardbooting than what he is doing on a snowboard now. Anyway, it never hurts to learn different things. So I guess the board length thought not be an issue, although I am amazed that @BLOODTYPEZX10R's daughter rides a board longer than herself! @softbootsurfer, I liked reading those 'unnecessary additions', good to see a proud father!

Board looks big relative to him, but that is often the case with smaller riders

It is his own wish to go alpine, never pushed him. He is a good skier and really likes skiing, so I actually held it of a bit because skiing kids are terribly convenient. My daughter switched to snowboarding when she was 9, but she likes softboots (never tried hardboots). But I surely like the thought of him carving, so I like to facilitate and not do anything that will put him off. That is why I am a bit hesitant on getting the 139. This year might be a bit early for going hardboots. And although kids are not too sensitive to it, having two boards specifically for him might give some unconscious pressure to try them.

Thanks for the feedback.The dry slope is very short, I don't plan on teaching him myself there. So the transition to hardbooting will be on snow, the dry slope is just first steps in softboots

My 11 year old son, good skier, now wants to start snowboarding. He getting lessons on a dryslope now on softboots, but of course he wants to snowboard like his father does.... Based on my own experiences in the late 80s, starting as a 13 year old on adult snowboards and rear entry ski boots, kids quickly learn on anything. So I don't expect it will be an issue to quickly switch to hardboots. Or do you have other experiences? I already picked up a speedster sl 145 with f2 titaniums cheap and he fits my wife's old hardboots. I also came across a speedster 139 (50 euros), wondering if I should get that as well. At 40kg he is on the light side for the 145. What do you think? Any other advice for teaching your kid?

For bail bindings the difference between M and L is just the toe and heel pieces, the base plates are identical, and also for an L Intec. But it could be that M intec baseplates are different. Are the base plates symmetric fore / aft? Could you share a photo? Anyway, if the choice is between buying new bindings or buying new boots, definitely get some proper fitting boots, even if they are more expensive. You will want new boots at some point anyway, and then the new bindings you bought would be obsolete. If you want to go cheap for now, consider non-intec bindings. Probably easier to get a used pair cheap. If you only have the intec heels, these are fine in F2 bail bindings, and probably in other brands as well.

I had a helmet with integrated visor (bought it because it was the first helmet I found than fit my head properly). It did not work for me. The problem is getting snow on the inside of the visor. It does not close off as all as goggles, so when it is snowing and windy, when you fall, face shots, some snow spraying from your hand, etc., often some snow got in. Keeping goggles on is a key thing. And the gap between helmet and top of the goggles.

@TVR I read the articles your linked and for three of them I pointed out shortcomings in the articles or your interpretation. Yet you don't respond to them. I am critical. I am critical of using vaccines for booster shots. I am critical of policies that sometimes still seem based as if we can eradicate the virus. And I am critical of antivaxxers who prolong the need for social distancing measures, preventing this virus from becoming naturally circulating, with us all converting vaccine based resistance to natural resistance until it is nothing more than another common cold. But as I said before, these discussions are in the politics/religion category for me and I will let it rest.

Note that for that factor 13 they are comparing delta variant infections in jan-feb 2021 vs non-delta variant vaccinations in jan-feb. They are comparing the chance that you get the same variant twice in 6 months vs the chance of getting delta variant within 6 months of getting a non delta vaccination. And that vaccination is not as good as the real thing(having a high mortality) is as expected. The second link is only a decision(recommendation) to use a vaccine with fewer side effects for this age group. Its the luxury of choice. Both links do not give any reason not to vaccinate. And a previous infection count as a vaccination(in Europe at least). But the immuno compromised and others are rightly fearful of those who downplay the risk of this virus, and spreading it. Open your eyes. You might see the sun shining.

Hmm, this should be in the vintage for sale section. Its a sheep in wolf's clothes by todays standards. If you take it easy the board is a nice relaxed ride for cruisecarving easy groomers. But torsionally the board is a noodle. It does not like to be pushed, when the fun really starts the board gives up. Board design had come a long way. If someone would like to try (have) one in Europe, I have one, on which I shattered (and repaired) the sides of the 'cap'. For free (located in the Netherlands).

Just checked this thread again - been avoiding it a bit because I realized a while ago that the vaccination discussion bears to many similarities to politics and religion discussions. But sometimes I like to check the crap you get thrown at you in the US. E.g. the first link from TVR. In the article a guy Steve Kirsch cites the VAERS database which lists 6000 heart attacks within 2 weeks after vaccinations (https://openvaers.com/covid-data/cardiac). If these data would be correct.... Then COVID vaccines also protect against heart attacks!!!! There are 800,000 heart attacks in the US per year. That means 0.01 % of the population gets a heart attack every 2 weeks. 180 million have been fully vaccinated, so those 180 million should have had 18000 heart attacks. Since only 6000 are reported, I guess COVID vaccines provide a 60% protection against heart attacks! A bunch of crap of course, just to show how you can play with numbers.

I'd say stick with shorter/smaller sidecut radius boards for now. Much better to progress and become a better snowboarder. For F2 the vantage 162 seems a good advice, or the speedster sl 163. Or an 162-ish sl board from another alpine snowboard maker. And keep the rossi for now! It is not guaranteed that you will immediately like the new board better. It does not sound like you really 'need' a new board*. You are so positive about it that it seems you have not yet run into its limits. *of course everybody needs more boards

What are the dimensions on those? Currently planning on 178 length, 24.4 waist, 160 eff.edge and 12.5m radius. I am a bit in doubt on the radius (if it is too small to my liking)

I must add that 'all' for me is just carving hard and riding powder. I mostly ride with my family and dedicated powder days are rare. Now I have dedicated HB and SB boards, and pick a board for the day. I regularly end up doing a powder run on a 20 cm waist, or carving groomers on my SB powder board. In the past I have built 22cm boards that carved great and were already much more enjoyable in powder. Now I will build a 24cm board, bit bigger nose, channel in the tail so the base in tail is rockered along the center. I don't expect the same HB performance as narrow boards, but close, and much improved powder riding.

So you are suggesting a 172x19cm board, but with full rocker? I'd expect powder riding would improve, but it would suffer dramatically anywhere else. You will ruin it's alpine board qualities, and for that price you might just improve the powder riding from very poor to poor. You would be far better of with a compromise. Lower camber a bit and increase width. A 22cm wide board is much nicer in powder then 19cm and still perfect for freecarving. Reducing camber, but not eliminating it. Nose and tail rocker starting a bit earlier. Maybe bit more taper and setback. Bigger nose. etc. At least that is the direction I am going with my "one board that does it all" attempt. Wild idea if you really want full alpine board dimensions with rocker: A tension rod along the top of the board, that you can tension to pull it into a rocker when you want to ride powder.

Yes you got me confused for a second too, as I think of friction as the resistance in my direction travel. Then I realized you must be a side slipper..

The stiffness number is just a number for comparison. Stiffness needed also depend on board length, sidecut radius, weight, design, torsional stiffness, etc.

Always nice to think about how a snowboard behaves: On hard snow (no significant trench), turn radius is mostly determined by the sidecut and edge angle On soft snow, turn radius /shape is mostly determined by board flex and pressure exerted by rider. With stiff laminates like used in alpine boards, the core only contributes 15-30% of the stiffness. The stiffness is quadratic with the thickness (only the core contribution is 3rd power with the thickness) You can quite easily build a board within 10% accurate of your design stiffness A bit on camber: The stiffness multiplied by the deflection of the board distribute pressure towards tip and tail. Deflection consist of camber (first the board needs to be bent straight) and deflection in the turn. If you turn tighter (increase edge angle), the board deflects more so the pressure on tip and tail increases. But you also exert more pressure on the board (because of the tighter turn). So with a soft board, most of the extra pressure will end up under your feet (because the board is not stiff enough to get it to the tip and tail). WIth a very stiff board, most of the extra pressure will go to the tip and tail (because a lot of force is needed to increase the deflection). A board with a lot of camber will need little stiffness to distribute pressure to the tip and tail. On the other hand, because of the low stiffness the pressure on tip and tail with not increase a lot when you increase edge angle. A board with little camber needs more stiffness to distribute pressure. However, the pressure on tip and tail will increase a lot more when the edge angle (and thus board deflection) increases. I did the math in the graph below for boards with different amounts of camber. Shown is the stiffness needed to distribute a given % of the total pressure to the tip and tail. Camber is given as a percentage of sidecut depth. E.g. if you take a board with a 100% camber and a stiffness of '7', at 45 degree edge angle you get a certain pressure distribution. If you carve a shallower turn, the stiffness is lower than would be needed to get the same relative distribution, so more pressure ends up underfoot. The same at higher edge angles, because of the lower stiffness it cannot get all pressure to the tip and tail, and you could overpower the board. Now if you'd go for a 33% camber board and you make it with a stiffness of 11 to distribute the pressure at 45degree edge angle. However this stiffness would be too much at 70 degrees, and bring a lot of pressure to the tip and tail. So the board would have a narrow operating window, being soft at low angles, much to stiff at high angles. The bottom section of each curve would be where you get a proper operating window. So a 100% camber board with ~7 stiffness would be nicely responsive from 30 to 60 degree edge angle, a 50% camber board with 9 stiffness would have it operating window at higher edge angles. Hope this makes sense

How was the camera mounted here? looks good.

Hip rotation works exactly as @johnasmo described for me too.

Nothing. Over 30 years old...

Ouch, sorry to hear that. hope you have a speedy and good recovery. PS. That brace looks like it would fit in a sb binding....

I have read through a few pages and well..... There was actually a video of him on the first page, see screenshot below. I guess it depends on your definition of carving.

Yes please share the link! I doubt it is for G-force pulling edge loading carving, but I'd like to check it out. I have seen discussions before on reducing effective edge (thereby reducing sidecut depth), instead of increasing sidecut radius,to get a longer turning radius. Honestly I don't see 100cm working without serious body dragging, but new ideas are always good to evaluate.