I was out there for the PM today, saw a brave soul on a Kessler I believe (I was on my softies). Just Mapmaker open today, with upload/download on Olympic. It wasn't very busy, but I suspect when I am out there with my kids tomorrow it will be nuts. Snow was the usual groomed/manmade, though pretty rutted/icy/choppy from all the race training. Hopefully its groomed tonight. Anyway, It wasn't amazing, but it sure beat spending the afternoon at work.
And yes, you can reload your pass online if you had one last year (at least that's what I did)