Corey

Heelside 360! And I love the groomer ball slough pelting Martina!

Got a digital level or angle finder you can throw across the toe and heel blocks? That'll help narrow down how extreme you need. I bet those plastic hoof shims (that the Montucky crew found) would add what you need to a 6-degree TD3 cant disc. Cut to fit under toe and heel blocks, add longer screws.

I'm 100% in the uneducated camp. I've heard about tree wells but assumed you had to be much closer - like hitting the tree. We just don't get that amount of snow here, nor trees that far apart. Thanks for posting! I know a bit more now!

Good point - heck no! But there is a common thought that stainless steel is stronger than even a grade 5 bolt - it's not!

Nice work Wolf! Fin just woke up in a cold sweat from his afternoon nap, feeling a disturbance in the Force... Get a bolt long enough that the unthreaded shank runs almost to the end of the lug, so the lug isn't pulling on the threads. Then trim to match. FYI, a Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolt is stronger than stainless, but they corrode if water gets on them.

Glad to hear you're making progress! Sadly, that board is done and unsafe to use. You won the lottery by not getting hurt with that failure! Save up and try a newer board for next season.

If the bolt tightens fully, doesn't allow the lug to move laterally off the bigger shaft, and it isn't pinching the lugs against the toe block - I'd ride with that. Getting new bolts is preferred though!

Short/frantic boards are SOOO much fun when you're in the mood. Twitchy, energetic, snappy, etc. When you're not in the mood they're tiring and amplify any mistakes. My Donek MK makes me smile (and breathe hard!) at boring little hills. But some days it's too much for me. I don't take it when I go to actual mountains and only have room for 3 boards. Are helicoils ok in a Madd's brass inserts? I can't imagine there's much T-nut left in the board...

Wow, that looks awful lamby!

Ha! I very regularly carry 2 boards to the rack, locking one up for a quick change if I feel like it. They're usually quite different, which leads to people thinking I have weird mismatched skis. Funny conversations ensue!

See Pureboarding for some burly stuff if that's your bag.

There are probably more softboot carvers than hardbooters right now. There are more people that watch fishing videos on YouTube too, so maybe all of snowboarding is dying? The success of hardbooting is not threatened by the success of softboot carving. So I say cool, pick the equipment you want!

Sitting in lodge for lunch, guy walks up and vaguely points to my boots: "Are those for cross country? The pins in the heel?" Liftie: "Oh, you're the guy with the fancy boots!" I just said "Yeah"

That sounds less good. Sorry, I'm no chemologist. Though I didn't like Plastidip for gloves either. They contact more often and with more pressure than knees and hips for me. Here are two notes I saved from the old Bomberonline forum on reinforcing clothes - I believe from European people: (anyone clever enough to be able to dig those out of some archive?) 1. Biresin U1303A resin from Sika mixed with their U1402B hardner. Without any pigment, this will leave a milky white finish. Honestly, it looks like a white goo was spilled over you. Another alternative is Biresin U1406A + U1406B as it is more clear with an amber tint. I recommend just buying a few grams of paint pigment that match whatever you want to protect. If you are buying PU the seller should be able to recommend what pigment would work the best. Issue #1 with PU is with the minimum order. We had to buy a couple of kilos and split it up between us. 2. Maybe a US equivalent? http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Rubber-an/c6_1117_1148/index.html Full thread: http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/42738-beef-up-your-gloves-polyurethane-how-to/#entry434918 Plastidip is relatively cheap and available easily in Canada in spray or brush form. About looks: I only use Shoe Goo for gloves/mitts. My non-alpine friends comment on how hideous the Shoe Goo is any time they see my mitts, but have never commented on the Plastidip on a jacket or pants.

I haven't tracked. Probably 30+ days? My hip and knee don't have much pressure on them except for hero snow days, which is less abrasive than -30 cord. It lasts long enough that I don't really think about it. I did clear on my previous pants, but just went with black on these orange pants as the clear looked a little funny. The EC guys were using some urethane casting stuff that sounded awesome but I ran out of desire to source it and this seems good enough.

Probably true. Have 30 minutes to reapply sometime in that 100 days? Shoe Goo seems to last indefinitely on snow if you can keep the edges stuck and don't mind how rigid it is and how it looks. Then again, 100 riding days for me is multiple years.

I use plastidip spray on the knee of my pants and the hip of my jacket. Works well for this and if you take the time to carefully mask the border it looks decent.

That's awesome!

Sorry, no direct experience for these. I just recall chatting with Fin and he said he got them made and ordered a BIG amount that scared him. In my professional life one solution to a problem was custom M22 bolts. There were roughly 2x the price of similar bolts and had something like a 5-month lead time. Minimum order was 1000 or so. Likely more for smaller bolts. This was pre-pandemic though so probably a 24-month lead time now...

They're custom made. Pricing isn't awful when you buy enough, but the factory's idea of 'enough' is a scary number for us regular folks.

That's my rule. It would have annoyed me when I was trying to learn a new trick so I choose to not mess up someone else's day. It is funny seeing the virgin cord at 3 PM between the elements - not even a heelside bulldozer down those areas! I say carve those areas up!

You gotta have fun, and pain stops fun pretty fast. That said, there's a strong focus on this site on taking small hardboots and enlarging them to fit the bumps of your particular feet. This is fine for many, but you can also get boots for your foot size and still get 70% of the performance with 5% of the work. There's a decision point for everyone of effort vs. performance. Only you can decide where you sit on that spectrum. Some people will gladly deal with some pain and make 5 trips to a bootfitter in the fine tuning process. Some will quit hardbooting if their feet hurt on the first day. Choose your fitment accordingly.

That's likely a shipping service, like dropping off a naked board at a UPS store and having them box it. Look up "burrito method" for how to pack a board. If the seller is unwilling to do that, then get a board somewhere else.

Two thoughts: 1. Added forward lean may mean you move the cuffs to a more-neutral position, sitting at an angle to support your 'resting' position rather than preloaded. 2. Focusing on pressuring the board with the soles of my feet rather than levering the boot cuffs reduced my shin pain considerably. Especially those early days in the season when my legs are getting used to any pressure at all. Oh, and it made me a better rider as a nice side effect.

Why limit to bodyweight training? Though doing the thing you want to do is better than doing nothing, by far!