tobrien8

Not claiming to be an expert by any means but I don't know if hardboots were the answer today either. When Jacobellis was DQ'd in the semis it was because she lost her balance off of a jump and over corrected on her heelside edge sending her flying through a gate. No way hardboots would have helped there. I think that if you switched the equipment on everyone in the field you would simply see people falling on different areas of the course. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the rhythm section at the start would be a nightmare. While more people may make it through the banked turns unscathed, I think we would see more wipeouts following each of the jumps. Also as has been mentioned over and over again, softboot technology has improved a lot over the last few years. I can carve pretty well on a 4 year old Atomic freeride board with some stiff Ride bindings and good boots. Of course it doesn't match up to a hardboots setup in carving at speed, but I'd be a lot more comfortable airing 20 foot gaps in softies. Just my 2 cents. I'd love to hear from BX riders who have competed in both that can give some more detailed pros and cons

Just booked round-trip from Chicage to Denver for April 1-5 for $215 including taxes. Thanks for the heads up on the cheap prices, wouldn't have found them otherwise. Anyone know of any really good pass deals that aren't blacked out that weekend? It's 2 college kids going so we're trying to do this cheap.

24k gold plated baseplate, ratchets, and steel cable all for the limited time price of $1,000

Look at the Arbor Push or maybe a Burton Feelgood. Both of those are more freeride oriented women's boards that will still handle the park. I've seen people ride both of these boards pretty hard. Never Summer and Nidecker are other options although they may be more expensive. Both of those companies have good reputations when it comes to freeride boards

So I just bought my first alpine board from the BOL classifieds and I'm looking for some help setting up the bindings. The board is a standard 175 RC and I bought a pair of burton race plates to put on it. Please don't harass me on binding choice as I have already read the other threads dedicated to it. They were cheap and I'm in college so that was important. I read the article on binding setup already. I'm not entirely sure where my stance width should fall but I am 5'9 with a 30" inseam. I plan on riding the lowest angles possible with no boot drag to start but I'm more interested in where bindings should be located from front to back on the board. Any help or input from someone who has experience with this board would be greatly appreciated. If it matters I do have about 10-15 days on hardboots last year on an old sims 161 FC. Not really sure what FC stands for but that's what it said on the board. I was able to lay down some decent carves as soon as I stepped on the thing and was hooked after the first 2 runs.

I definitely might be interested. Can you send pics via the address in my profile?

I'm looking for a pair of 26-26.5 boots for this upcoming season. My upper limit on price is around $100 although I could go a little bit higher for a nice pair of boots. I bought a pair of old burton earth's last year in a 27 and they are just a little bit too big. I'm still learning so they don't have to be too nice, and I haven't spent enough time in hardboots yet to know whether or not I want a stiff boot or something with some flex. Thanks in advance

I might be interested depending on how these fit. 26-28.5 is a huge size range, what did you think they fit closer to?

Email Sent

email sent on boots and maybe bindings

email sent

what size are the boots?

I just started riding hardboots last year after 4 years of riding softboots. I had always been more focused on carving and freeriding so it was a pretty natural step. My previous setup was an Atomic Radon with binding angles varying between 15/20 and 25/30. Last year I started riding an old borrowed Sims FC161 and was hooked. However, the board always felt pretty soft and the SCR was so short that it was tough to carve at high speed. I'm looking to buy a board used this year. Unfortunately, my budget doesn't allow for one of the fancy new metal boards as I still have one more year of college left. I'm 5'9 and weigh 165 lbs. I live in the midwest so I do a lot of my riding here, but I have also been able to make it out west for at least 2 weeks for the last couple of years. The two boards that I've been looking at so far are the Madd 170 and the Volkl RT 173. I know the Madd is skinnier but what are the other differences in how they ride. I'm looking for a board that I can carve all over the mountain (or hill) and will allow me to develop my technique. I really like the looks of the Coiler AM but they don't come up very often in the classifieds and even less often is the flex anywhere close to correct. Any other suggestions on boards to look at would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.

I just started this year at the age of 20 and I'm hooked. So far I've been surprised by the number of park monkeys who ask questions and are interested in alpine gear but maybe that's just me

Sorry I'm going to have to take that back because I just realized that I don't think I have $100 to get rid of right now. Good luck with the sale

I'm interested. What range of boot sizes will these fit?

I think its more of a reflection on what they're doing now as a company than what they have done in the past. No one can deny what Burton has done to help grow the sport, but their current line up leaves a lot to be desired. Just about everything I've seen from them is overpriced compared to other brands and there just doesn't seem to be a performance gap that I can see. Just my 2 cents

Are these the regular version or are they step ins?

any chance this board is still available?

I have a pair of smith phenoms with the gold sensor mirror and they're great in overcast conditions. Great all around goggles for someone with a medium size face.

I sent you an email