boostertwo

Big guy = big feet. I downsize boot shells to a size MP 29.5. It's waaay tight, but helps to alleviate overhang and allows me to ride lower angles.<img src="http://tinypic.com/1ij1c6"> I'm pretty sure those are the angles I ride with 18cm boards, but it may be yet another hallucination resulting from my tempestuous youth. I'll check next time I mount one up (I usually ride 19.5-20cm waist-width carving boards). Cheers, B-2 PS: Just checked: 72/69 on Burton FP 173 180s. Now that's it's mounted up, I'm going to go ride it. Have a goof afternoon!

Hi Philw,Thanks for your thoughts. I'll try to clarify. Before I do, I'll volunteer that I have size 13 feet which requires me to ride very high stance angles (69/66) on narrow, 18cm waist-width boards. Similar to a black hole, maybe I'm riding at the point where all known physics breaks down. But I think my observations also apply to riders with slightly less high stance angles. High stance angles use different muscles <I>when using your legs to adjust the steering angle of the board</I>. You can feel this for yourself by simply standing up and 'scissoring' your legs, first with high stance angles, than with low ones. Big angles change the direction in which you pull the front foot/push the rear to steer the board. You can also feel the range of motion grow less with high stance angles using this same experiment. Of course you still will use gleuts, quads, abdominals, and hamstrings when you ride--to create the other aspects of board performance. Deep flexing/extending of the legs is used to manage forces and quick movements of the legs to push/pull the board underneath you help to manage fore/aft pressure, for example. I'm simply saying that with high stance angles, you'll use different muscles when using the legs to <I>steer</I> the board. If you're saying that you're <i>always</i> able to 'tip and rip', good for you! I certainly admire that, and like you enjoy blasting carved arcs as often as I can when I ride carving gear. But most people, like it or not, have to make steering adjustments as they ride. You'll see racers do this when the course dictates they make a turn tighter than the sidecut radius of the board--or when they throw it sideways after crossing the finish line. You'll also need to do this anytime you make turns tighter than the sidecut radius of the board (bumps, trees, ultra-steep chutes, in crowds, entering a lift maze, etc.--anytime you need to skid a turn). This is where the leg steering movements are weaker and offer less ROM as stance angles increase. Of course, in addition to making the movement with the legs, there are <a href="http://www.vailbcschools.com/Page4_5_6.pdf" target="http://www.vailbcschools.com/Page4_5_6.pdf">other ways</a> to make steering movements (using upper body rotation or counter-rotation). Narrow board or wide, all are useful, and, IMO, a skilled rider should be able to make each one as the situation warrants. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1iisux"> Mi dos centavos. Cheers, B-2

Narrower boards usually require higher stance angles. In addition to the performance considerations already listed, high stance angles also affect the movements you can make with your legs to steer the board (point the tip where you want). Higher stance angles use smaller/weaker muscles (adductors/abductors) to steer the board than do lower stance angles (which use quads/hamstrings/gleuts/abdominals). Stance angle also affects the range of motion of your steering movements: it is reduced as stance angles get higher. The ROM of femur in the hip is is less with higher stance angles, and you can't use the knee as a hinge to sweep the lower tib/fib as you can with lower stance angles. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1ifpn4"> IMO narrower boards will work really well for groomers and high performance carving. In situations where you need big, strong, quick steering movements (turns that are smaller than the sidecut radius of the board, bumps, trees, heavy wet snow, ultra-steeps and chutes, most off-piste, and some course configurations), boards that are a bit wider with lower stance angles are preferable.

From your description, I wonder that you might be using a big movement of the hips or whole body to tilt the board, rather than using the knees or ankles to tilt it. Moving the knees or ankles is usually a much better choice to tilt the board at lower speeds. Here's a <a href="http://www.vailbcschools.com/Page2_3.pdf" target="http://www.vailbcschools.com/Page2_3.pdf">short description</a> of the different movement options available to tilt the board on edge. The article and illustrations are obviously written for lower stance angles, but we have similar movements available in hardboots at high angles. If you'd like to get a feel for the different movements used to tilt the board and you have your board handy, find a doorframe and carpeted floor and strap in so you can use either side of the doorframe for support. Isolate the movement you use to tilt the board so it comes from the ankles. After some practice, move 'up the ladder' isolating the movements from the knees, hips/spine, and whole body. IMO, versatile riders have mastery over each one of the movement options used to tilt the board (and over each of the other movement options used to create the other aspects of board performance). If you get out early (or late) on a wide, uncrowded slope, try <a href="http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=792&highlight=practice+drills" target="http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=792&highlight=practice+drills">hangers</a> if you'd like a fun practice drill to develop lower leg movements to tilt the board. Or find a gentle slope and make edge changes as fast as you can (ankles will be faster than knees, and both will be faster than hips/whole body). <img src="http://tinypic.com/1idbmp"> Or go faster! Cheers, B-2

I've a set that I'd be happy to post you for $5 plus shipping. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1hqc5e"> Cheers, B-2

If you find the aforementioned Photoshop techniques too time/labor intensive (they are), you might want to find an area that uses special software to create the sequences. You might want to check out Dartfish, which has a feature called 'Stro-motion' that will create quick photosequences. We use it for staff training and with guests at Vail/Beaver Creek and I know several snowboard schools offer Dartfish imaging as part of their instruction packages. We have an on-mountain Dartfish station at Vail, for example, where riders can get instant sequences and useful feedback on their performance. I'm sure if you contacted a Dartfish rep, you could find the area closest to you that offers the software for snowboard training. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1glvew"> Keep in mind the composited images are not tack-sharp as those created in Photoshop and are unsuitable for high quality prints, but work very well as a quick way to produce a serviceable sequence for training. Other software that is used for snowsports training includes Swinger and V-1. Both are useful, and have cool features to review and improve riding performance, but to my knowledge, only Dartfish offers the automated sequencing feature. Hope this helps! B-2

Thanks for posting.

You might like this Burton FP 157, 18cm waist width, 9.57 M SR. Don't exactly remember the model year, but it's the one with the red topsheet. Of all the alpine product Burton made this model board (I've owned several) is one of my favorites. Rips short precision arcs and hangs on to longer carves at speed. Big fun!!! <img src="http://tinypic.com/uvtw5"> <img src="http://tinypic.com/uvtwy"> It has been well taken care of, but has seen a few seasons of use. Base is in great shape, edges are too, but have seen a few tunes. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1e5sb5"> You're welcome to it for $80 plus shipping. Cheers, B-2

Thursday. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1ffmg3">

It's from a regular video camera. On hard boots, with high stance angles, I don't consciously force my knees apart when turning--but I do move my knees independently to adjust edge angle along the length of the board. Sometimes I drop my rear knee towards the snow on toeside turns, and this can feel like my knees are separating--but it is only for the period of time that I want to use knee angulation to help tilt the board, not all of the time. In thinking about it, sometimes I push my lower legs gently against the outside of the boot cuffs (pushing my knees slightly apart) which seems like it gives me speedier energy transmission to the board (kind of like driving with hands at 10 and 2 on the steering wheel--one pushes while the other pulls). Maybe it's because I have a bit of slop in the boot cuff, but it feels like it gives me a better, more responsive 'handle' by which to maneuver the board. I don't ride like this all the time, however. It's just an occasional focus. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1em4ps"> I have seen some softboot riders who have a pronounced 'cowboy' look, and suspect this has become more prevalent as greater numbers of riders use duck stances. Is this what you mean?

Your local Mountain Manager would welcome your feedback, I'm sure. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1elzle"> In addition to providing a better surface for carving, eliminating the 'curbs' will make for a safer, more enjoyable experience for all guests.

You might like this Burton FP 157, 18cm waist width, 9.57 M SR. Don't exactly remember the model year, but it's the one with the red topsheet. Of all the alpine product Burton made this model board (I've owned several) is one of my favorites. Rips short precision arcs and hangs on to longer carves at speed. Big fun!!! <img src="http://tinypic.com/uvtw5"> <img src="http://tinypic.com/uvtwy"> It has been well taken care of, and has seen a few seasons of use. Base is in great shape, edges are too, but have seen a few tunes. <img src="http://tinypic.com/1e5sb5"> You're welcome to it for $80 plus shipping. Cheers, B-2

The lift/cants are sold. <img src="http://tinypic.com/17314z"> Hope it's snowing where you are! Cheers, B-2

In a recent training session with Jim Lindsay (Aspen bootfitting pro), he mentioned the FIS formula to determine sidecut radius is <img src="http://tinypic.com/16kowx"> FWIW. <img src="http://tinypic.com/16kpdu"> Cheers, B-2

Up for sale are two Burton Cant/Lift wedges. These lifts were included with Burton Race Plate bindings in the mid-1990s to help riders better dial in their alignment. They will help you, too, if you're looking for lift/cant pieces for your Burton bindings. Please note: they are three-hole bindings and will work with Burton 3-D hole patterns. <img src="http://tinypic.com/166mw6"> You're welcome to either or both of them for $15/ea. plus shipping. <img src="http://tinypic.com/166nlx"> Cheers and best wishes, B-2

I've a Burton FP 157, 18cm waist width, 9.57 M SR. Don't exactly remember the model year, but it's the one with the red topsheet. <img src="http://tinypic.com/uvtw5"> <img src="http://tinypic.com/uvtwy"> It has been well taken care of, and has seen a few seasons of use. Base is in great shape, edges are too, but have seen a few tunes. It'd make a great, high-performance rocker. You're welcome to it for $75 plus shipping. Cheers, B-2

I've one of the fully adjustable cant/lift stayems that Burton included with their Race plates through the late '90s. It is comprised of two wedge-shaped discs that stack one upon the other, and offers much greater adjustability than the single piece plastic wedges that Burton once offered. IMO body types and stance angles require far more adjustability than the one-size-fits-all approach that the wedges offer. You're welcome to it for $13 plus shipping. <img src="http://tinypic.com/160xw2"> Let me know, best wishes, and have fun! Cheers, B-2

<B>At the Beav:</B> Centennial, Harrier, Larkspur Bowl, Pitchfork are all good cruisers. Cresta on Arrowhead has been good as well, but a somewhat harder surface. Catch Cataract when it's groomed: it's some of the best steep groomed in this part of Colorado. I've been at the Beav through the holidays. Until the recent snows, the surface has been HARDpack (formica-hard). With rocks. The surface is now packed powder, but there is still the occasional scratchy spot on the steep bits of the well-traveled trails. It's snowing now at the Beav (1/4 8:30am) and more is forecast through the next few days--so the conditions will continue to improve. The past few days, we've been heading to Vail for better snow (there are still untracked stashes if you don't mind short hikes). <img src="http://tinypic.com/160xhf"> Give a shout if I can be any more helpful with recommendations for Vail/BC (tho' you usually can't go wrong here). Cheers, B-2

Drill: Singletrack Rider: Spike Eisenman Best wishes for a healthy, happy, powdery new year! B-2

<img src="http://tinypic.com/zvfas"> Best wishes for a healthy, happy new year, B-2

I've a Burton Canyon 168 in very good rock board shape (includes fresh professional base grind and tune) that might work The extra surface area will provide some extra floatation in the deep stuff, lessening resistance for your kite. You're welcome to it for $50 + shipping If you have big feet, I also have a pair of size 12 Burton Driver SI (in very good shape, clean and fresh) and as-new Step-In CFX bindings (used once) which might work for you. You can get on the entire setup for $125 + shipping. <img src="http://tinypic.com/zva7n"> If you prefer, I also have a vintage Burton 'Twisted' Asym Air 64 (reg) soon-to-be-rocker. The topsheet, base, and edges are in very good shape, but there is a slight compression between the bindings on the heel edge. The compression did not damage the base of edge, and it should work very well for kiting and rocking. You can have it for $50 plus shipping. <img src="http://tinypic.com/zvads"> They're not true twin tips, but can be center mounted if you are looking for forward/switch versatility. (I wonder that a directional board might work at least as well (tho' not for switch moves) to deliver extral floation for the tip in the deep stuff). Hope the snow is great where you are, B-2

Burton Cant/Lift assemblies if you can't find them elsewhere. I'm happy to post a set to you for $10 plus shipping. Let me know. <img src="http://tinypic.com/zljic"> Best wishes for deep powder! B-2

<B>OT:</B> The sequence images are from digital video, constructed in P-shop. <B>T:</B> Image of board has not been altered in Photoshop. The small cosmetic scratches you see are actually on the topsheet, not cyber-constructed to make the board look as retro as it really is. <img src="http://tinypic.com/x7wjd"> This board is like a time travel machine--even more so if you ride in the right gondola! Cheers, B-2

Here's a few pics of the lift/cant shims. As you can see the lift is adjusted by stacking shims <img src="http://tinypic.com/x8rxg"> and the cant comes from moving the curved notched piece laterally. <img src="http://tinypic.com/x8sap"> It's the best B-ton race plate alignment device I've yet seen--but IMO still not as precise as Catek's or Bomber's design. With the Burton system lifting the heel does not change the 'ramp angle' of the toe block, and canting the heel block does not cant the toe block. <img src="http://tinypic.com/x8sci"> Both Catek and Bomber lift and cant the entire binding, not just a part of it.

Yes; Frappe, you are right. Image is from a sequence with a few simple P-shop filter effects. <img src="http://tinypic.com/x7u50"> Now...how 'bout that board?!!!