Aracan
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Posts posted by Aracan
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18 hours ago, pow4ever said:
The Joerg/Pure Carving group are actively address those barriers.
I think you mixed up Pure Carve (Not Jörg) and Pure Boarding (Jörg) there. IIRC, Pure Carve was the company that made the surf-inspired Maverick boards, and I believe someone named Cliff Ahumada was involved.
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Strangely, those rare hardbooters I see at my local hill are usually on really old stuff - stuff over which an Oxygen Proton would be a significant improvement. They usually do suck, too. I keep wondering why they bother, as it is hard for my to imagine they have actual fun, doing what they do.
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35 minutes ago, st_lupo said:6 hours ago, Beckmann AG said:
As Aracan mentioned, 'correct' base bevel can make a board more maneuverable where the board is transitioning between flat glide and edge rise.
I was understanding Arcan's post as pointing out the benefit of base bevel as relates to not catching the wrong edge if you get out of form...
I am not sure I see the difference between those two things, since catching an edge will certainly have a negative impact on maneuverability. But yes, my main concern was not with catching an edge but with being able to side-slide if necessary. Since such necessity often comes with the wanting to avoid a crash, I would want to make sure a tune does not stand in the way.
That said, I never thought much about it. My board came with 1° base bevel, and since it rode well from the start, I have kept it that way.
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Interesting to know. I would have thought 0° on the base is hard to drift in a pinch.
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From the look of it, the EC12 spring box seems to share the characteristics of most aftermarket solutions: more travel, but no Ride/Walk functionality. Not that I ever miss the latter.
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I like the idea of a foot-shaped boot with a humane ramp angle. I don't quite follow why it needs to have a lateral step-in system, as I have always been happy with standard bails. Also, I am quite happy with a bit of lateral play, of which your proposed system will probably offer even less than the Intec system ....
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Not to be obtuse, but how much of a problem does binding suck actually pose for the recreational rider? I notice it on my board after waxing, I scrape off the excess wax as much as possible, it leaves small depressions in the base, I go riding. I have no idea how the board would ride without those small depressions, but I suspect I wouldn't notice a difference.
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After 2+ decades of each one, I am not holding my breath for suddenly discovering they are the same. Of course they are the same, since in both cases one has to navigate compound steel-edged planks to which one is connected via plastic boots, and that on a frozen-water surface.
Unfortunately, I have no idea if softbooting is also the same as skiing, since I have never tried it. This would be the interesting part: Is hardbooting more like skiing than softbooting? Or, even more extremely, are the similarities between hardbooting and skiing greater than those between hardbooting and softbooting?
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On 4/17/2019 at 9:10 AM, Comapedrosa said:
Dude 3: “if it’s to do that, you might as well use actual real skis!”
Whenever I hear someone say that "hardbooting is like skiing", I automatically assume they are clueless about either one (and yes, I skied for decades).
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Pray, what are those things in the first picture in the second shelf from the top, just below the "Iron Rock" plate?
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Ride more and carve consistently clean backsides in the hard steeps. That is probably going to keep me occupied for more than one season.
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We'll see. Although I suspect that at MP 28.5 I'll have a tough time getting into a boot aimed at children
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The RX8 was a precedessor of the RC8. Same shape, but thicker plastic, hence stiffer. Still, I doubt that the MS boot can be set up as flexy as the UPZ with red tongues and green DGSS springs. Strangely, I cannot find the different tongues and springs in the MS webshop, only the two different basic stiffness flavours.
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Ah, let's have a bit of internet discussion, seeing as my season is over anyway!
Regarding those MS boots: I have (and this is an important point if we are going to have a proper internet discussion) never touched, let alone worn them. From what I hear, however, their longitudinal stiffness is quite noticeably higher than I would like for my riding. So, they may be proven, but for some applications they may be proven wrong.
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My 2 cents: Don't get hung up on boards and bindings at the beginning. You can lose yourself in that rabbit hole later on. The boots make or break the alpine deal. If your boots don't fit, you will have a lousy time on any board, in any binding. If they do fit, it will still work, to a degree. Try them on, have them tweaked, until they fit.
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Hello all,
so I finally secured myself a build spot with Bruce, and he promised to forge me a plank this coming October. Next steps for me: Figuring out what I actually want, and, also important: figuring out how the finished board will make its way from Canada to Austria. This is where you come in: Can anyone of you knowledgeable carving folk recommend a service that will not cost an arm and a leg? I already discovered shipbymail - their rate calculator gave me about CDN 100.-. When I emailed them for confirmation, they thanked me for pointing out a bug in their calculator and gave me CDN 338.- as the actual rate. I think there must be some wiggle room there. Time is not critical, I have waited long and am willing to wait a bit longer.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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Just got my build spot for October. Thank God I have time to work out what I want. Currently I am thinking along the lines of my PB Bastard, but with improved edgehold and somewhat larger SCR.
By the way, can anybody recommend a shipping service from CA to Europe?
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She definitely needs the smallest UPZ shell (sole length 279 mm). Whether that will prove too roomy with the appropriate liner is impossible to tell from a distance.
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I take the OP's question to be how the length of the foot is best determined: By standing with the heel against a wall and marking the tip of the longest toe; or by stepping on a piece of paper, drawing the circumference of the foot and measuring its length.
I prefer the former.
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Not sure if the Sigi pic is to the point, we would have to see the video. From his position relative to the gate he may already have finished the frontside turn and is rotated into the next backside turn.
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3 hours ago, slapos said:
Grabbing the front boot on the backside will lead to plus position, which is something that I do not want to currently go back to.
Exactly. However, you have a much better image of where you want to be, and I suspect you are more ambitious as a rider than I am. I speak strictly as a freecarver. For my part, I am content with the +/- positions for back and frontside respectively. Take a look at 0:15 in this vid of yours:
It may well be that you are on the way to a very dynamic and powerful technique. The here and now looks like you have to do a lot of work in very little time, which I avoid by assuming the + position - maybe at the cost of further development.
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To be frank, in that video and yours the hands are often were I try not to have them. For the backside it helps to grab the front boot.
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I ride a wide board with more splay than most here, something like 39/55. So it makes sense for me to have cant on the rear binding and toe lift in front.
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I do (or at least try to do) + on heelside and – on toeside for carving, no matter how low I go.
Softboots, Hardboots, history, whatever...
in Carving Central
Posted
So much this. Whenever someone mentions hardboots on a softbooter forum, the standard response is "no, because then it would be like skiing". Which at least tells you that the poster offering that piece of wisdom is clueless about alpine snowboarding as well as alpine skiing.
As for the Envy bindings, I call bullshit on the picture in the site header. If the binding sits flush with the outward edge of a normal AM carving ski, there will be at least 5 cm of overhang over the inward edge. The widest part of the street shoes I am wearing right now is 11 cm. With the added thickness of a softboot and the width of the binding itself, we are talking at least 14 cm. A normal ski has a 7-8 cm waist. Just as length with our hardboots, width is a critical factor for ski boots. Seems not the smartest move to replace them with a system were width was not a consideration from the start.