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About charliekarr

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  • Location
    San Frantastic
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
  • Occupation?
    Mechanical Engineer
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Oxess SXR174
    Coiler EC 175
    Kessler SL 162
    Bunch of old stuff
  • Current Boots Used?
    UPZ RC10
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    TD3 SW 3/3, yellow rings
    TD3 SW SI uppers directly bolted to a modified BBP
    F2 "Titanium"
  • Snowboarding since
  • Hardbooting since

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  1. Thanks skategoat, the board looks great.
  2. Looking for a PTex-top Kessler 180. Stock build preferably, as I'm ~62kg, and my feet need a 200mm waist. 4x4 inserts are fine. I'm interested in trying an Allflex plate too, so those inserts would be a bonus. Just no UPM-only, if that's a thing. Condition isn't super important as long as it isn't wrecked.
  3. Hi, How much for the 180 with or without the Vist plate (including shipping to the US)? Also, are there any cracks in the topsheet? I've broken 2 of these boards, so I'd like to know that it still has a healthy lifespan.
  4. I do. It's slightly modified (extra inserts), but it's structurally sound, and as stiff as it ever was. 4x4 mounting, and I have a Wunderbar. PM me for details.
  5. I'll take that last one if it's still available!
  6. I demo’d an Oxess XXRW174 (now known as SXR174) at the TTC last year, and it was an eye-opening experience. The price tag was intimidating, but after adjusting to it after a few runs, I knew I had to have it. That board has a combination of grip and pop that I had never experienced before, and yet I can ride it all day*. I still prefer my Coiler for softer/irregular snow, and I usually don’t end up as wrecked after a big day. But when it’s firm, up to and including icy, the Oxess is shockingly good. *Not because it’s forgiving, but because I feel compelled to ride it until my legs liquify.
  7. They look a lot like igus bushings: https://www.igus.com/product/3 Shipping is likely to cost much more than the bushings. They keep most USA stock on the east coast. There is always (in the USA) McMaster-Carr, but I don't know if they have the right dimensions available. I don't have my Fintecs near me, but I would guess that the pin diameter is 10mm, and the Fintec body has a 12mm bore. Measure carefully before buying anything! https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=1baa1vd Avoid nylon, since it absorbs water and can swell, affecting the clearances. Any of the Rulon materials will work well.
  8. Oh, by “wide”, I meant across the width of the board, not along its length. UPM is normally 129mm wide, but these inserts are at 150mm (i.e. closer to the edges). So my UPM plate doesn’t fit. I have no idea what this pattern is designed to fit, but I’m working on modifying my plate to fit the board.
  9. This season's new quiver: Oxess SXR174 (formerly the XXR174W). Had to buy it twice because Bomber didn't ship. Donek Voyager 170 Kessler 162 with an unusual wide UPM, purchased from cam oliver His, hers, and his, respectively.
  10. Add me to the list of the ripped-off. I ordered one of the most expensive boards in the Bomber store shortly after demo'ing it at TTC, and having a generally positive in-person experience with the Callens. After countless attempts to contact them, they would sporadically reply to say it was just about to ship. The most recent was 2 days before the bankruptcy went public. My board is still in another country, has not been paid for, and is not going anywhere. This is just plain theft, wrapped in lies. It's way too late for me to claim any kind of purchase protection since I paid it in full half a year ago. I feel like a fool to have waited this long, but they seemed like nice people who were trying hard. They are not. Whether or not the embezzlement claim against Angie is true, they took money from a lot of us with no intention of delivering product.
  11. Hard to go wrong with anything mentioned above. Any modern board by a reputable maker will be a big awakening! The advantage of going with Donek or Coiler is that you can talk to the person who designs and/or builds the boards, and get a great match for your size/preferred turn shape/terrain. My own experience with SG is that they are quite fragile. I'm about your size, and I've broken 2 185 Full Race Titans. I'd put it down to bad luck, but I've talked to other boardmakers about this, and they weren't surprised.
  12. The Hexarmor mitts are WARM. Highly recommended, especially if you can get a good price (try ebay). The fleece liner is thick and it's velcro'd in place to the shell. Dexterity is ok, but not great due to the thickness and semi-mitt design. But I can still grab an Intec handle through my pants without much trouble, let alone adjusting boots and flipping TD3 toe levers. The Hercules gauntlets are now fully waterproof, and a bit uglier after sealing the seams. Definitely not as warm, but probably a good choice for spring when combined with a liner. I tend to run very hot, so these may be good enough for me during the normal season. Either way, I really like the idea of a separable inner and outer glove, because I will no longer have a waterlogged glove that's *mostly* waterproof and refuses to dry. Waking up to not-quite-dry gloves is hopefully a thing of the past.
  13. Hexarmor makes a huge range of Superfabric gloves that seem very promising. I got a good deal on a pair of these on Bay: https://www.hexarmor.com/products/arctic-mitt-4050 The palms look like they'll last through anything I can put them through, and the back of the hand has some rubber "armor" on it. The only weak point seems to be the cuff, which is quite thin, but the palm extends down pretty far. They have a removable fleece inner glove, so they should dry very quickly if they're not highly waterproof. Definitely a cold weather glove. Every leather glove I've used ends up with holes in it before too long, so I'm never going back to those. I also got a pair of these as an experiment, inspired by the long oven-mitt style EC gloves I've seen: https://www.hexarmor.com/products/hercules-r6e The fabric itself is waterproof, but the seams aren't. I'm going to take care of that with some silicone RTV and see how they do. Zero insulation, but I got XLs for my M/L hands so I can fit a heavy waterproof liner glove inside. I wouldn't hesitate to use these for Coleman slides on tarmac, so I think they should last forever on any kind of snow. Their long-cuff Ugly Mudder gloves would probably be the best thing on earth for this purpose (with a liner inside), but the appearance is just a bit too much for me.
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