carverboy

soft boots flow NXT FS Gnu Altered Genetics from two seasons ago(camber board w/magnatraction 159cm+/-2cm I don't recall the exact length)

Im a big fan of sandwich const. myself working in the ski industry for 20 plus years you realize how much more durable sandwitch is. Having said this, understand that from a wear and tear view point most skis and boards are "worn out" internally before the outer damage mounts. Sure if you're a jibber you need sandwitch, period. but as a carver one of my all time favorite boards is the first run Nidecker Proto (latter models were not nearly as stiff) I thought of caps as unworthy untill I rode the Nidecker. I think you can build great boards either way but I give the nod in terms of durability to the sandwitch(unless it does'nt have a full wrap edge)

I spend 40% of my time(day light riding mostly) on soft boots. It's a lighter easier to get around more laid back setup. 60% of my time(nights and butt hard days) on my hard boots going fast and loving it!

Yes, apparently my rep does not Know his product. As he was the one who told me all banana. How do you tell a rep is lying? When his lips move LoL! I really liked the Altered genetics and Im not really a fan of boards that soft usually. The magnatraction should be on everything but beginner boards(seems it causes a lot more edge catching for them)

yep, Pretty much what I thought. The banana is not for carvers. I spent a few days on a Gnu altered genetics with magnatraction and was in love from the first couple turns on ice. Someone needs to mate magnatraction to a alpine board.That would rule east coast boiler plate! And yes all the lib product is now banna, which I think is a mistake. Do they really think no one free ride's anymore?

Just wondering if any Int/adv riders have ridden the banana traction boards from Lib/Gnu and if so there impressions. For my part I took a Cygnus 160something(dont remember) out for a day last season. Im reluctant to pass judgment on one days ride but here is how it felt that day. When put on edge the board dove in to the turn much to easily for my taste. There was no stored energy that I could feel turn to turn. I found myself riding with more weight on my back leg, possibly from trying to get some "push" exiting the turns. The board was very stiff and I was riding hard choppy conditions at speed this felt like it might shake a filling loose!

Ive rode a few. All in all good boards. I still have a 160 SL I take out now and again. I used to hate on cap construction but this one has out lasted(camber and pop) 2 Volkl rein tiger SL's, the first went limp the first week I had it! And yes Oxygen is and always has been an Atomic product. Back in the day Ski companys spun off new brands in order to avoid the negitave press of Ski company Boards (this was chiefly caused by K2 argueable the producers of the worst boards ever) So we had Nale=ELAN Oxygen=Atomic After the hate ski company thing died down Atomic realized there name would sell state side a lot better than Oxygen. In europe they maintained the Oxygen brand for carving and rental product.

every now and again I poke my head in here and view one of these threads lmao! thanks guys lets hope we all get a great winter to ride with or without camber (personally Im a big fan of it):lol:

Sorry Barry, Im not sure what brand of ankle brace it was. It had two grey vinyl pads inside it with thick blue gel pads sewn into them. these went on the outside of the ankle and the whole rig velcroe'd onto your ankle. I removed the pads from the bace and then slid them down the front of my boots before tightnening them.

I used to get shin bang to the point I would have to take a few weeks off to recover. It is a cumlitive injury, gets worse if you try to ride through it. I have stick boy ankles and as a result I stuffed a pair of gel ankle brace pads in the front of my boots. worked wonders! Someone mentioned an after market product earlier that look pretty good. In my experience the power strap alone did not solve the problem.

Sorry to hear about your nose, I broke the tail of my172 first day out couple seasons ago been languishing in my closet ever since. Thinking about T-Nuting some sort of brace for it because it is such an awseome board, The tankers def. rule!

Got out for the first turns of the season the other night. Took my Atomic Hatchet with soft boots since conditions arent great yet. First run was great. Got stuck on the chair for 15min going up for the second run. Took off making a lot of fast tight turns over packed choppy snow. half way down I hit a bump as im turning and get an unpleasant sensation in my low back. Long story short Ive been laid up for almost a week now with low back pain!

Detune from the tip aprox. two inches back along the edge from the point it makes contact with the snow. the same from the tail. This will keep the board from feelling jerky during the initiation of the turn and allow the board to finish the turn with less chance of hanging up in the turn. If your riding alpine and not freestyle you may want to apply more base edge bevel to the same areas instead of detuning. the advantage is that you retain the use of all of your edge for grip during the turn while still smoothing out the boards transition on and off the turn. Also realize that the amount off detune can vary from none to 8 or more inches! It all depends on riders prefrence.

Ive got two logical 155's and a 163 logical race stock all goofy. There great boards but once you make the transition to sym. you wont miss them . The loss of weight, gain in speed and abiltiy to track flat on your base (not that often, granted) makes up for loss of crazy easy, backseat turns.

Ive raced a lot of BX over the years in hard boots there great on icy courses! If it's a USSA race they wont allow Alpine Shaped boards (basicly blunt tails) But the manufactuers make plenty of bordercross boards with round tails these days (Atomic FireStarter for example)

I would be careful about using wipe on or spray on lubes. My understanding is most liquid type lubes will damage the base's abilty to take on wax. This is because they either contain agents that dry or clog your base. Having said this I also know many pepole have been happy with these products. A hot wax is always the prefered thing to do in my opinion. But pepole will put rainx on there board because someone else said it helped. Stick with hot wax or rub on if you must. liquids are bad news.

Regular Army Tanker 85-89 IRR in suport of Desert Shield Jan-Mar 91 My younger brother was Desert Shield-Storm with the 82nd Spent a season in Whitefishtwo years ago awesome Mtn and area. You know Andy "Bear" anoski by any chance?

Every day on the hill I hold the line for hardbooting Bordy. Im the guy who patiently answers all the questions from the tourist and loans his equipment to anyone who wants (or I can convince ) to try hard boots. If I could ride a super board I would. I changed my riding style radically when symetrics came along and Im certainly not scared to do so again if need be. Here in the South East there are no new alpine boards to demo and I dont lay down my hard earned cash without knowing a board is going to work for me. Hell, Im not even completely satisfied with the overly progressive sidecut on the atomic firestarter I did buy. It was the closest thing to a race board I could find, demo and shop form. No, Im not cheap Im poor. So save the cheap ass comments for the Lawyer looking for a deal on last years gear, I see that all the time too. And as far as knees together, I did say that I too pull my knees apart while riding.So relax Im not attacking your technique. Have a great season, Im still waiting for my resort to open, which is why Im hanging out here. otherwise Id be making turns right now.

Wow, I have so gotten a headache from this thread! But like a train wreak, I just can't seem to not look. I would love to go free riding with Bordy sometime and bask in the glory of his all powerful technique. To bad I only own a bunch of washed up inferior race boards. Sarcasm aside, seriously Im pretty sure (17 years of hard boot'n) that bringing your knees together will not ruin your turn's or otherwise impair your day on the snow. If it does ,It may be you, not your technique, that sucks.

I always took it for granted knees together was how you rode an alpine board. I did notice removing cant gave me a lot more control of my board. Then a friend videoed me on my race board in rutted choppy conditions. Looking at the video in slow mo latter I was shocked at how far apart my knees were at times! I like my board to bend in the turn, hence a tight stance width when i drop my knees inward the board responds and thats enough for me. I think everyones right. knees together knees apart they both work fine.

When you go for the really steep angles you ride from the sides of your boots not toe to heel. you still have control. but like i said before at low speeds control def. gets" interesting" Ive taken a skwal out a couple of times and def prefer my race board for stability. But I know at least one guy who could rip it on the skwal, so like I said before any stance will work if you take the time.

Experimented with ultra steep angles before, Found it felt great at speed, very comfortable. But ultimately wasn't worth the loss of control and balance at low speeds. Now days I just move both bindings to the same angle inside the edge of the board but usually not more than 56 degrees. I have seen enough good turns from enough stance angles (yes even duck!) that I really think there is no golden rule when it comes to stance. As long as you only alter one element at a time( width,angle,cant,lift, board,snowcondition) you should be able to find your personal "sweet spot" for riding.

Riding in the south east,( Beech and Sugar Mt. N.C )crowds are a fact of life. Personally I have found that trying to announce yourself to beginner/cautious skier/boarders is a recipe for disaster. After years off watching skiers in crowds you def. can begin to see patterns of turns in down hill riders that will allow you to discreen a safer line around them. The key is being in control of yourself and having sufficent speed when overtaking in order to ensure your abiltity to pass smoothly. if you put on the brakes and slow down in a crowd you will find your line controlled (ie. shunted left or right or worse case stopped) by those in front leaving you wide open to be plowed from behind.

Wow, this realy brings back the memories, I still have two hot logical 155's (goofy) and a 163 Race stock logical (massive camber) My first Asym was a kemper Apex 160 then a Burton PJ 156(not sure on legnth) Big step up from the kemper but lost it's camber mid season Ponyed up 600 dollars for a hot logical155(first of 3) broke a oxygen KR (that tail cut was way to severe to bear loading up on hard pack) Demoed the agression stealth(way narrow, way asym!) Remember riding a friends Asym Air(great board) had a F2 Beamer (way asym!) I have never been able to lay out and drive from the"back seat" on a sym board like I could on the logicals! took one out again a few years ago and could'nt even ride it:(! My Symetrics are just that diffrent!

What's wrong with extra bevel and no detune. When I raced I kept my boards sharpe tip-tail with no detune. Other racers I know like some detune. Unfortunately, In our neck of the wood's A skier who asks for an extra .5 of bevel and no detune is the same guy who comes back to me and says he couldn't finish a turn after getting said tune. Basicly anyone who demands a half degree of bevel in general is from Atlanta or Miami and read a ski Mag touting the benefits of said bevel. Im sure there are plenty of skiers and boarders who put good use to these sort of tunes. We just don't see them in the South East.