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Sierrasnowbrdr01

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  1. Carp. I have no idea on the length of the originals. I can get you a measurement on these if that will help. I had a heel blow out one day and that is all it took for me to go back to bails. Let me know if you need some numbers.
  2. Digging through the closet and found this gear. Send me an email if interested, buyer pays actual shipping cost. TD3 Burton Discs $25.00 for the pair. SOLD Fin Tec Main Pins for Fin Tec Heels. These are the newer hardened version. Pins are exactly 1" in length. 2 sets available (4 total pins-2 for each heel) $10.00/set Thanks for looking.
  3. I'll purchase the 185 Race board. Can have the money to you as soon as you contact me.
  4. The biggest hurdle you need to accomplish is to figure out what your intended use for the board. Boards are generally sized by weight and the intended use. Height really isn't a factor any longer. Most "alpine" boards are sized by the turn you need/want them to make. (this is just a guide line). You can squeeze a sharper turn from a board (lessen the circumference) if you need to by forcing the turn. Example: a board with a 12 meter side cut, will carve a 24 meter circumference turn without being forced (in theory), but with a little push and effort you can cleave the turn down to 20 (these are just numbers, don't quote me). As far as your weight is concerned, I weigh 155lbs. with all of my gear on and my GS board is a 183 with Hangl plates on it. I love the thing, but am done riding it usually by noon if I start on the hill around 8:00. If someone told me to pick one board for the rest of my life: it would be a 164 Prior 4WD. It does everything well, but a bit piggish edge to edge. Think of a 4WD of not so much a formula one race car, but more of a trophy truck. If I where you, the first thing I would do is to move my bindings to 55/55. Start at 50cm wide and elevate your front (lead boot) toe and elevate your rear (back foot) heel. Don't mess with canting. Think gas pedals and high heels. Lowering your angles will be counterintuitive, you might as well go back to soft boots and bindings. Most of all make sure you can flex your boots. Start with some silicon spray. If not loose enough go to a reputable boot fitter and have them whittle on them to make them softer. Deep knee bend, concentrate on pushing your shin into the tongue of your boot when you ride. This is a start, give it a day or three. Then mess with angles, width and canting if need be. Figure this out and picking a board will become a whole bunch easier. Build your frame before you try and build your dream machine. Build up the basics, spend the money on a good set of bindings. Plastic eventually breaks and the thinner bails on cheaper bindings are scary. Bomber and Cateks are a life time investment. Minus them trying to always build a better mouse trap. Get your boots dialed in, if your feet are uncomfortable - you will be. It can be one of those epic blue bird, ego snow days and if your feet hurt and your boots and bindings aren't working, you will be miserable. WCR vs. WCR Metal. All that you need to know is that when titanal is placed into a snowboard it dampens vibration. And it does the job extremely well. Prior only makes WCR's in metal currently. Before Prior released the new "Hammer head" design, you couldn't tell the difference between a WCR and a 4WD other than width. (4WD is wider) Now the industry wide shift to "Hammer heads", " Shovel noses", "Elliptical noses", "Re-curves", or what ever the board manufacture is touting. The WCR shapes are totally different from last season, but the 4WD is unchanged. The Prior's that I am selling are from the 08/09 season. Before the change. If you are still interested after all this information, hit me back.
  5. I currently have a Brand New Prior 169 WCR (Haida Eagle Graphic) and a WCRM 173 (White) with 4 days on it. The 169 has never seen the sun and is still in plastic. The 173 is Mint, better than New. $300.00 worth of tune and wax on/in it. $600.00 for either one.
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