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Mattias112

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  • Website URL
    http://www.r-a-d.se

Details

  • Location
    Sweden
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Blackburner, Afterburner, Skwal Dragon, Black diamond, Burner 167, Burner 197
  • Current Boots Used?
    Raichle 423, Carver
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Bomber w suspension kit 67/60

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  1. Well actually this is only true on a hard surface, like ice. On snow the middle of the board will sink a little deeper and thus create a multirate radius... The only thing is, when I calculate this radius it actually should be longer radius in the nose and a thighter in the middle! And then the same from the middle and to the tail( If the board is ridden with a central weight distribution). This is particulary true if the board is leaned over more than 45 degrees. And in those turns the clothoid or elliptic, which both has a longer radius in the middle (what is the difference??) will work against the board and the board will not have as good egdegrip as a single or slight progressive radius. This is not just math. It is exactly what I experiece with for example the boards from Virus. But I must admit that a clothiod or elliptical sidecut is fun and reactive in normal carving conditions. It is only when you tilt the board more than 45 degrees that you actually can feel a slight decrease in edgegrip. I do ride rather agressivly but whit a very centralized stance so another person with an different riding style, might disagree with this.;) I know some of you do have other opinions and I look forward to read them.
  2. Hi, it seems that there are some different explanations on a clothoid on a snowboard. So please, if some know which is true please inform me:confused: Does a clothoid shaped board have shortradius nose and tail ond longer in the middle, (like a elliptic board)? Or does it have a longer radius nose and tail with tighter in the middle? Or thight in thos nose and then progressively longer? Or the opposit?? Thanks:) My personal thoght would be that to decrease the forces it would need to have a long radius at nose and tail and thighter in the middle. But if not so I would appriciate an explanation on how the practical theory of this. Thanks!
  3. This is not what I call decambered either. This is not new at all but has been like this for years. But to have decambered 1/4 of the total length of the board, that is another matter:) That will probably be a little unstable at speed... But as you sy it will also make the board easier to initiate the turn. If it is combined with a flexpattern to suit. But a soft nose and a really decambered nose? Not for me on my alpine board... But everybody likes it different:eek: So ride and be happy!
  4. Well my guess was that to call a nose decambered it will have a long section above the snow in a straight line? Otherwise it would just be a low nose:confused:
  5. Just want to share my experience with you:) Facts: Skis and boards made for high speeds do not have decambered noses becase it will make them less stable att high speed. High speed needs long contactsurface and low noses to avoid that air gets under the nose. Note that the noses have a very smooth low uplift. I have been riding A LOT of boards the last 15 years. And despite that boards are a lot better now, there are some things that will not change: A sharp uplift will make the boards dig in soft conditions. Also if the board has a sharp turn in the noseshape(outline of the nose) at the end of the running length it will also dig ... A elliptic radius with steep radius at nose and shallow in the middle will have poor edgegrip in harder conditions in higher speeds especially in a laydown turn. But the concept works great in the pipe and park. Here you want a board that reacts very quickly but you are not so concerned about edgegrip in a laydown turn... But as always the construction and flex of the board is just as important(if not more so) than the shape of the nose and sidecut... Have a nice day:biggthump
  6. I find it easier to carve low on the heelside with more weight on the front fot. I initiate my turn almost the same as you but then I straighten my backleg a bit and twist my hips towards the nose of the board. See video: http://se.youtube.com/watch?v=SKtdR486fhg Hope this helps a litte:lol:
  7. Yes I ate the other ski, I was hungry;) For me Skwal is the ultimate carving tool. You can go faster and do easy lay-downs on both sides. (At least with the www.r-a-d.se board)
  8. Yea its more like snowboarding than skiing. If the conditions are good(ie soft snow) you should be able to keep up with your mates on snowboards in a day or two. As with any carving board you need to have a bit of speed before you start turning, or else you will trip over:D its better to just go for it:biggthump
  9. http://se.youtube.com/watch?v=yHwf15IrMJ4 Last week I had the oppourtuniy to test this new board. I have never been able to ride this good before! I luv it!:lol:
  10. OK you are heavy but if the board feel to stiff you may like a little more narrow stance. I go down 2-4 cm in stance width with stiff boards.
  11. The stiff setup does not hinder you but a radical forward lean on your front foot certenly do!!! I use my Raichle 324 in maximum upright or almost max. But with more forward lean on back foot ( pos 3 or 4). I only weight 65 kg (guess thats about 150p) but with the BTS system with yellow spring it only worked in powder! I changed to blue springs and it was better, but not worth it for me so I sold it. If you like a really soft boot then they are good. So if you try your boot in walk mode and think its nice but perhaps just a little soft then go buy BTS. I think my Raichle actually are a bit soft and if you weigh 225 p I am surprised that you find your boot stiff!
  12. I use 0/1 edges. But if you have as much "baselift" I would just go 0/0. As for canting I use different on different boards. Narrow stance with no canting on front and just 3degrees combined cant and heel lift(TD2) on backfoot. Just go for it!
  13. [/qoute] BUT, If I was watching this for the first time at a pub, I would have bet the feaking HOUSE that I was gonna see some flopped down EC turns. ( I think one guys actually did put 2 hands down but he resisted burning the old armpits ) Euro carving film san euro carves? You just know they are BOL boosters! No offence, EC-ers I guess you are just jealous:biggthump of EC carvers.
  14. Somebody mentioned Afterburner by www.alpinepunk.com or RAD boards by www.r-a-d.se ?
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