The 177 FC is a special board.
The nose is big for a carving board. When you bent the board in the turn, the curve continue perferctly in the curve on the nose and the edge get bigger.You can test that by sitting on snow and push on borad.
It is like a variable edge size , if it is possible? When you go flat the contact edge is smaller than when you turn on the edge by pushing. Maniability at flat and longer edge grip when you turn, this is for me a very interresting concept for a carving board, and radius 9-12 short radius.
The result of this concept, is the board turn very short in carving for a 177 , and maniable board at flat, but the big surprise is the possibility to carve at higher edge inclinations in wet snow. That is the first board that allows me to carve almost in wet snow like in middle hard snow. And for me it is a revolution.Never i was able to me to do that wich an other board so easely.
For me I find at ent the solution to carve at the end of the season, so i can now carve carve carve until the last days.
This board is a big discovery, a very interresting concept, and the solution to finish the season by carving no matter if the snow is wet and high temperature.
If you have a probleme on wet snow !!!!!!
First of all, this is a review thread. Use it for test ride comments and civilized discussion. If you want to flame, use "some prototypes" thread in the carving section...
This was designed to be an ultimate freeride/carver for hardboots, or softies for those who like very forward angles.
The inspiration for this board came from few excellent, yet not perfect, alpine free ride boards that me and few local riders have tried and frrm versatility of modern slalom boards (OES SL included). For few years I tried to convince Alexey that he needed this type of board in his lineup and that we possibly could redesign one of the existing boards to fit the bill. However, now he decided to develop it from scratch - new molds, new geometry. I've designed the geometry (so blame it on me if it didn't work), while the core thickness and construction I left to Alexey.
Flex: M, S and XS, for now.
Construction: Kevlar composite, wood core
Weight: 3.9 kg, the heaviest M
The sidecut goes high up into the decambered nose, creating heavy taper (less decamber at the tail). However, there's almost no taper at the contact points, flat running. I'm hoping to achieve the best of both worlds this way - carveability and float in pow.
The prototypes are here!
Been using the Thirst 8RW this season for GS racing and carving this season. This season is my first racing Slalom and Giant Slalom, I have been riding soft boot racing boards for the last decade. I have ridden all the super expensive boards out there, I even regretfully own a couple of them. The first day I rode the Thirst 8RW it held a better edge than any of my other boards. Every time I go out on the 8RW I find a new gear and I go faster than the time before. I raced the 8RW on Presidents day at White Pass in a GS race. I won two gold medals and the Thirst board was amazing! I would race this board at any level of competition. I qualified for Nationals at Copper Mtn. I hope to go but I'm still trying to figure out if I can. The Thirst board that I'm borrowing has more power than my Donek and holds a better edge than my Kessler. If your wanting a high end board with a ton of power the 8RW is the one.
recently I have decided to learn how to snowboard and I have a old snowboard like 10 years old but it's a racing snowboard. It's Fanatic brand, 180cm (5.9). I'm 186cm.
I am using the ski boots from my ski but they are not very good fitting my legs.
If you can see it in the picture, it looks like they are loose at the top. (they are fitted on maximum but there is a lot of space for my hand to freely enter the space)
I was reading this forum for a while and I understand that I shouldn't be using the ski boots for snowboard.
My question is: is there any good boot what I can use on the snowboard and also for skiing?
Or, because I am just a beginner, should I buy some board with the soft bindings?
Also, I tried a freestyle snowboard with a soft binding, but the shoe (it was from a rental) was a loose at the top.
Shouldn't be the shoe firm on the top?
thanx for your advices .)
I had the pleasure of a lesson with @Eric Brammer aka PSR on Sunday. He spent a couple of hours working on my technique, developed originally in Switzerland in the 90s.
Plug for Eric - he is a great teacher, technical and able to focus on fine detail and impart insights and suggestions that are meaningful and helpful. I would highly recommend him to anyone looking to improve their carving skills.
After the lesson I documented as much of what I could remember from the lesson as possible as working notes and a reference for the future. At risk of opening a technique debate I thought that I would share here in case anyone else would find this helpful. Any errors below are mine not Eric's.
Initiate turns moving shoulders in a gentle arc left and forward, back and center, right and forward (in practice imagine a tray across the hands with glasses on that should stay stable) Upper body relaxed Moving shoulders across the board pulls the hips across, moving board onto edge In a tight turn if the nose hooks compensate by dropping the shoulder outside of the turn Each turn is divided into 3 arcs: Initiation, compression, transition In transitions lift and lead with the front foot Use 'counting' (or metronome like tempo) to pace your turn’s arcs, so that you can 'play with' the fall-line by how far you arc a turn Body posture: for relaxed riding, body is higher, allowing for easier recovery in times of need; for intense riding body is crouched, less room for error - aim for a point in between. When it's steeper: lower + looser usually wins the day (ie, the more relaxed you can be)
Initiation phase: toeside turn
Move shoulders forward and outside the toeside Push down with front toes Move from knee forward and over second toe ·Look over toeside shoulder to check nobody approaching then look to point where you want to end the turn Compression phase: toeside
Push down with back toes Move back knee down towards the snow Move center of weight backwards between feet Push away from the board with both feet evenly To tighten the carve push back knee towards front knee decambering the board (but, by the time you are coming 'across' the hill, the rear knee should be 'levered' such that it's over the Center toe, so don't 'get stuck' with knees too close to each other) Transition phase: toeside
Move shoulders back and to center of board Lift front toes and twist foot towards heel Move front knee over little toe Unweight board by lifting both knees towards your body
Initiation phase: heelside turn
Move shoulders forward and outside the heelside Lift front toes and push toes towards heelside Move back knee forward and over big toe (but be 'lifting' the toes, too) Look up to check nobody approaching then look to point where you want to end the turn Compression phase: heelside
Push down with front heel Move back knee down towards the snow (front knee may also contribute in this motion, but is a 'soft' move, usually) Move center of weight backwards between feet Push away from the board with both feet evenly To tighten the carve lift toes and push back knee towards front knee decambering the board Transition phase: heelside
Move shoulders back and to center of board Start lifting front foot Move back knee over little toe (Briefly! Don't get 'behind' the board) Unweight board by lifting both knees towards your body
By Martin W
If you're looking at this you probably know all about the legendary quality and performance of Donek snowboards. Each 'board is custom built IN THE U.S.A.
Sadly, I moved away from the Tahoe area the year I bought this (2014), so it has never been ridden. I paid $790 for this 'board with shipping; and the 2017-2018 price is $840 (with shipping).
I wanted a carving 'board, but I wasn't going to race and I didn't want to invest in a hard boot / plate binding set up. The Donek Razor is a carving 'board that is designed to be ridden in soft boots, so it was a perfect match for what I wanted.
You can find more about this model at the Donek Website:
I weigh about 180 lbs and am an advanced intermediate snowboarder. I was looking for something that was FAST, fun and easy on groomed runs. I wanted to recapture the feel of my 1987 Sims 1710 Blade. The only custom change I made was to reduce the waist to 25.0 cm, rather than the 25.5 cm standard design. This was to enhance the rail-to-rail turn performance. This width also easily accommodated my US mens size 11 boots. If your boots are much larger, this may be too narrow for you, depending on your stance.
I can ship the 'board to any place in the continental U.S. for about $40-$70, depending on your location. This will be 2-4 day delivery with tracking and delivery confirmation via USPS Priority Mail. Payment would be via PayPal.
if you're interested, you can contact me via text: 530 570 5932 or e-mail: Martin.Wallace.firstname.lastname@example.org or Switch.Snowboarding@gmail.com. I am new to this forum, but I have been selling on eBay - and have a 100% positive seller's record - for well over as decade as SWITCH_SNOWBOARDING and CALIFORNIA_AU.
Here's the blurb from the Donek Website:
The Razor is a carving board designed to be ridden in soft boots. It boasts all of the materials and technology that we use in the construction of our race boards, with a tuned flex and sidecut combo optimized for carving it up in soft boots.
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