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What's In Your Arsenal You Take To The Mtn?


barryj

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Haha, which ski area/mountain?  

Short boards for the closest local hill.  158 to 168.  Sometimes a 171 Skwal.  Usually 4 boards in total.  

Some short, some long for a nicer hill in the same province.  160-182, 3 or 4. 

Aspen gets a 182 EC, a 167 VSR AM, and a powder board.  Planes limit choices...

I think I'm bringing the whole stack to Montana!  

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Mostly 2 boards in the car nowadays, but it changes depending on forecast and where I'm going. One way or another, a 22-24 wide all-mountain board is always in the car, acompanied with a carver or a powder board. 

Edited by BlueB
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2 hours ago, dredman said:

From last year.  Posted before... @BigDogDave @johnasmo And myself up at Whitefish. 

 

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Ah that nice feeling when you can change board for every run. Never had it, but I'm sure it feels good!

41 minutes ago, BlueB said:

Mostly 2 boards in the car nowadays, but it changes depending on forecast and where I'm going. One way or another, a 22-24 wide all-mountain board is always in the car, acompanied with a carver or a powder board. 

May I ask your preferred all mountain boards? I'm thinking of getting one made for next season.

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Intec cable (bust one at SES riding with Corey and Riceball and was back in action in about 45 minutes), spare F2 Intec toepiece, a range of tools, spare M6 screws, solid and liquid fast onset calories, tape measure.

Current minimum board set is like my coffee. Long and black. Kessler KST162, Rad-Air Obsession Extreme, Coiler Nirvana Energy 174.

Edited by SunSurfer
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2 hours ago, daveo said:

May I ask your preferred all mountain boards? I'm thinking of getting one made for next season.

The AM boards I like are a bit more freeride oriented then typical AM suspects beloved on these boards. 

My favorite, for many years, was the Nidecker Proto 167, black version. Great for everything except high speed carving and... longevity. 

Often, when I go to Whistler, the Tanker 192 takes the role of the AM board. Big mountain, big board. 

I absolutely loved a custom Coiler AM 169, built with 24cm waist, big nose and soft flex. Does everything like Nidecker, with better edge hold, but less nimble in moguls. 

For this season I have high hopes for prototypes of OES AM 167, designed by yours truly 🙂 The review thread: 

 

Edited by BlueB
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Yes, only hardboots, even when I'm on a standard twin board in duck stance, teaching beginners or training the instructors. 

Yes, only hardboots, even when I'm on a standard twin board in duck stance, teaching beginners or training the instructors. 

Hey, just checked your profile - you have an SG Soul and Nomad? Those should do as versatile AM boards... 

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3 minutes ago, BlueB said:

Yes, only hardboots, even when I'm on a standard twin board in duck stance, teaching beginners or training the instructors. 

Admirable. 

Do you have preferred angles for freeride and powder? I think I adjusted my stance based on your recommendation in a thread actually. 

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Rear boot, toes/heel right over the edge, some overhang is fine. Front to have splay that suites your body specifics, some underhang is ok. 

I find lesser splay (or parallel) a bit carvier, more locked in, while greater splay allows more rotational moves and deeper range if motion. 

On 23ish wide boards im mostly at about 45/30 (26.5 boot). 

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5 hours ago, BlueB said:

Rear boot, toes/heel right over the edge, some overhang is fine. Front to have splay that suites your body specifics, some underhang is ok. 

I find lesser splay (or parallel) a bit carvier, more locked in, while greater splay allows more rotational moves and deeper range if motion. 

On 23ish wide boards im mostly at about 45/30 (26.5 boot). 

I will save this info. Thanks a lot for that. Hopefully 45/35 on my 21.5cm wide Donek Nomadoodle 164 is suitable by these guidelines..

Talking of body specifics, on my softboots, I much preferred 15deg of splay (33/18 was good). But on hardboots, I prefer 5deg (or even slightly less) of splay. For the freeride hardboot I seemed to prefer 10deg. *shrug*. Is that normal? Or I am weird.

Edited by daveo
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9 hours ago, SunSurfer said:

Intec cable (bust one at SES riding with Corey and Riceball and was back in action in about 45 minutes), spare F2 Intec toepiece, a range of tools, spare M6 screws, solid and liquid fast onset calories, tape measure.

Good point!  A spare Intec cable can save a whole day.  I had one go at SES too and Fin replaced it so fast that I only missed one run of the group I was with.  Now I change my rear foot cable about every 2 years, just in case. 

I also carry spare boot buckles, a UPZ ankle pivot, an old set of Intec heels, an extra pair of googles, and misc. tools.  I can do anything other than rivet in boot buckles, which most rental/ski shops can do.  

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4 hours ago, daveo said:

I will save this info. Thanks a lot for that. Hopefully 45/35 on my 21.5cm wide Donek Nomadoodle 164 is suitable by these guidelines..

Talking of body specifics, on my softboots, I much preferred 15deg of splay (33/18 was good). But on hardboots, I prefer 5deg (or even slightly less) of splay. For the freeride hardboot I seemed to prefer 10deg. *shrug*. Is that normal? Or I am weird.

No, not weird, we are all different. 

To increase the splay, inward cant on the rear might be beneficial. However, it can lead to other issues. There are no set rules, you really need to try and see what worked for yourself. 

However that Nomad is on narrower side, might be just right with 10 degrees. 

 

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8 minutes ago, BlueB said:

No, not weird, we are all different. 

To increase the splay, inward cant on the rear might be beneficial. However, it can lead to other issues. There are no set rules, you really need to try and see what worked for yourself. 

However that Nomad is on narrower side, might be just right with 10 degrees. 

 

Thanks for the info and advice.

I have an aversion to low-ish angles, so when I got that made, I went with 21.5cm 🙂

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