barryj Posted December 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) Ok.....making progress............moved UPM mounts to widest and moved axle bosses to Outer settings......got axle bosses lined up and into the slots with little resistance, no hammer needed and tightened down. Have added BP cants and E-rings and Base plate. My only problem so far is that with my 3 and 6 degree BP cants, when you add the screws for the Base Plate the low side of the Base Plate screw is causing the E-ring to gap by the screw being a little too long and pushing against the plate. Anybody else seen this? See the gap in the close up photo of the E-ring....... I tried turning it back a few turns but to release the pressure enough to reduce the gap to the Base Plate, the screw sticks up in the way of the toe/heel blocks. Edited December 9, 2018 by barryj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) check your hardware package, you should have at least one short screw, if not break out the hacksaw/grinder/file and shorten your screw a few mm, or try a different set of mounting holes. Edited December 9, 2018 by big mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 Or ride the plate with TD1's and bring your "A" game to the hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pokolikrat Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 12 hours ago, pokkis said: Final tinkering will never end due snow and slope are living thing and they need constant adjustements to get it perfect. And that´s why I sold my plate after one season. You don’t ride but play mechanic on the slope. They are maybe good for racing but for free carving by my opinion waste of money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 I dont adjust my setup during day, if i need to adjust i do it after/before day. Learned something with more than 10 years on plate riding. I'm just too lazy to ride without plates. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 3 hours ago, Ladia said: And that´s why I sold my plate after one season. You don’t ride but play mechanic on the slope. They are maybe good for racing but for free carving by my opinion waste of money. I felt the opposite. Took me 2 days to get it set right then just left it. Allowed me to remove the cants from my bindings, which removed one extra complication, also. Nothing like the combination of the ride like a cadillac but handling of a ferrari... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 9 hours ago, barryj said: when you add the screws for the Base Plate the low side of the Base Plate screw is causing the E-ring to gap by the screw being a little too long and pushing against the plate. Mario has it right - there are shorter screws in the kit, or file some off if you don't have those. Remove burrs before threading into the aluminum. Don't leave a screw loose. Assemble the cant ring and baseplate off the board without the E-ring to ensure it's flush or shorter than the cant disk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) I like @Corey's advice. Don't change your binding setup in relation to the snowboard. Mound the Boilerplate as centered to the snowboards inserts as possible. I like to start with the plate to board mounting as spread out as possible. If I remember your ~220 and I'm ~250 spread out the axles.. Alxes should slide in smoothly, if not stop and do the setup again. I'm going to put an addendum to @pokkis good advice to be cautious. Low speed near people where you will want to peddle the board is very difficult as you will not be able to peddle effectively and will fall. Give yourself plenty of space especially around lift lines, cat tracks, etc. Also watch your top end speed... The plate will mute the feedback loop and you will find yourself going faster than you might otherwise which can put you outside of the safety zone. Getting locked into a carve headed towards the woods at high speeds is a bad place to be on a plate as recovery is much more difficult than plateless. I would also advise taking the first couple of runs without a plate, even on a different board, to give yourself a sense of the conditions so that you understand the difference when you ride the plate. Edited December 9, 2018 by lonbordin Finished a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 8 hours ago, daveo said: Allowed me to remove the cants from my bindings, which removed one extra complication, also. Did you eliminate lift - or just cant only?...or do you ride flat with a plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted December 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 All Right! I think I'm ready for a test drive tomorrow!! Man! Does it looks FAST just sitting Still!! My stance width is 19 inches, which is a half inch from my norm on this board but I got a little room to adjust or widen as needed. Angles are 65/60 The front axle is around the base of my big toe and a little ahead of the ball of my foot. The rear axle position is mostly under my heel If you see I made any faux pas with the install let me know....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 Sounds spot on for position. It should perform well with that setup. Ease into it , don't head straight for the double black! With a little practice side slipping and low speed steering is not as difficult as some suggest. Check your base unit mounting screws (into the board) each evening, they can loosen without you noticing. Isocline/isolation plates are not to everyone's taste. It will feel very different. Give yourself some time to get used to it before you think of tinkering with the setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted December 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 10 hours ago, lonbordin said: Alxes should slide in smoothly, if not stop and do the setup again. fyi: My front floating axle slides right in.........my rear axle slides 3/4 of the way in and then I need to push it the rest of the way in...... a little resistance but it goes in by just using my hand - If there is an Axle tightness problem what will that translate too or ride like?? How do I know this thing is functioning properly?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 (edited) Bench test it. Supports under the tip and tail with room to flex the board. Now flex it. The floating axle bushing should slide freely in its housing. Axle issue suggests very slight misalignment during assembly. I assemble in the following order. Base units to board, finger tight. Slot in axles and the plate mounting bushings. Now screw down plate, initially just finger tight to check alignment. Carefully remove plate without moving base units and fully tighten base units. Now mount plate, initially finger tight screws, then fully tighten much as you would tighten screws on a car wheel to minimise misalignments. Edited December 10, 2018 by SunSurfer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted December 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 11 minutes ago, SunSurfer said: Axle issue suggests very slight misalignment during assembly Are you saying I need to disassemble and realign rear axle ?? In Fin's "How To" video he had to use his 5mm T wrench to get his axles all the way in.....I only had to use my hand/finger to push it in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 Bench test it. If everything slides easily you should be good to go. The odd squeak from the mechanism is fine. If in doubt, I would disassemble/reassemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted December 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 If your pushing on it during "Bench Test"....how can you see the axle sliding?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 (edited) 9 hours ago, rjnakata said: Did you eliminate lift - or just cant only?...or do you ride flat with a plate? Only cants. Was recommended to me by JJA. Figured he might know a thing or two. Just felt way more stable and could ride more centered. My dealer (drug dealer? Lol, no), actually said the same thing- that a lot of people rid of cants when moving to a plate. Could be my biomechanics in general though, I don't know. But yeah removed cants. Kept toe and heel lift. I should add that it is still comfortable to ride with my front foot canted in, like I used to and still do without a plate. But, I can ride more centered and feel more powerful and stable without. I would say at a minimum, it is worth a shot! Edited December 10, 2018 by daveo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 (edited) Push down with your hand and look in from the side. The sliding square bushing should be close to the centre side of the alloy housing when the board is unflexed, and the alloy housing should move freely toward the centre relative to the axle when the board is flexed. I ride the same binding angles/lift/cant on plated and unplated boards. Edited December 10, 2018 by SunSurfer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 1 hour ago, barryj said: Are you saying I need to disassemble and realign rear axle ?? I only had to use my hand/finger to push it in! If you can seat the axle with just a bit of force by pushing it in with your finger, you should be good to go, but if you would have to apply even the slightest bit of persuasion with a hammer, you should check the fit of the axles in the side bosses, and if that’s good, loosen the bases, get out the wunderbar, and realign the bases. Misalignment can come from either the side bosses or the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 I should add, if you have to twist the axle with your fingers to get it to seat all the way, you should check alignment; it should go in easier than that. Like @SunSurfer says, when in doubt, reassemble. You’ll get better at it each time you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted December 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 2 minutes ago, jburk said: if you have to twist the axle with your fingers Nope....no twisting was needed......it slid in 3/4's then I just pushed it with one finger the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 On 12/8/2018 at 8:00 AM, jburk said: Move the side bosses on the plate to the outermost position to give you the BP’s max axle spacing of 62 cm. Is this a good standard for most riders? Is that based on rider weight, board length or something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 18 minutes ago, rjnakata said: Is this a good standard for most riders? Is that based on rider weight, board length or something else? It is a good beginning for rider stances around 50cm. Based primarily on normal adult rider stance width and boot size. Read the thread through from the beginning and the rationale should be clear. On my own boards I have added extra UPM inserts for an extra 6cm of interaxle distance and run at the max if at all possible. 4x4 setups are much more problematic, due to the limits imposed by varying insert packs in the board and the unequal position adjustability of the Bomber axle units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted December 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 (edited) Bench test seemed aok.....I could see forward float in the front axle....which would make me think the rear alignment must be ok ............or the front axle would bind up because the whole gizmo isn't square... Tomorrow/Monday, while the Kessler is getting a wax job I'll take the Alloy D.O. out for a couple of runs to get a sense of the conditions before I windup the Kessler and turn it loose. Thanks for all the info and support! Details to follow............ Edited December 10, 2018 by barryj 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 29 minutes ago, SunSurfer said: It is a good beginning for rider stances around 50cm. Based primarily on normal adult rider stance width and boot size. Read the thread through from the beginning and the rationale should be clear. On my own boards I have added extra UPM inserts for an extra 6cm of interaxle distance and run at the max if at all possible. 4x4 setups are much more problematic, due to the limits imposed by varying insert packs in the board and the unequal position adjustability of the Bomber axle units. Any chance you could detail the process of installing more inserts? I have a friend wanting to install middle vist inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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