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Minds in the Water


softbootsurfer

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Got my fat ass  handed to me today

I flew into Jacksonville a few days early for a family vacation thinking that I would attempt a few days surfing.  Staying at a slightly shabby yet fancy hotel on the beach, with a rental shop right around the corner.  Walked down to the rental shop, picked up a 3/2 wet suit and a softop long board and walked it back to the hotel.  Funniest part of the day was walking through the hotel lobby in my wetsuit and grabbing my board from the front desk where I valeted it earlier    Walked out the front door, around to the beach, and paddled out. Sometimes common sense is not so common with me, thinking that I should be okay with 3'-6`  First wave i went for sent me face first into the rail, and then it thoroughly rag dolled me.  Went back in for a few, got beaten up on my way out, and thought`` tomorrow is another day``  Things should calm down a little with winds clocking around from the wnw, making it a little safer for my beginner ass.  We'll see what happens

Mario

Edited by big mario
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1 hour ago, slopestar said:

Heard it was good today from a very good surfer/snowboarder friend in FLA. It's easy to get "served" in the ocean. She can be an unforgiving wench

No doubt!!

It looked gorgeous, and would have been if I was better. Last time was 5 years ago in Barbados at freights.  Nice beginner friendly break. Loved it there, actually  caught quite a few waves despite being called a kook by my instructor. Actually, what he said was "maybe someday  I  can come and be a kook on your mountain" it was an awesome, yet somewhat respectful burn.  Some days I forget that I'm on the other side of the half century mark

Mario

 

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Ok...down here in Nicaragua for 3 weeks...Hacienda Iguana has 3 different breaks, Colorados, a beach break like Puerto Escondido, Panga Drops, a point break with gnar and Villas, a beach break for smaller days...very few people around with the political situation right now, though this place way south is a sanctuary and the locals are certainly happy to see us...the arms get a little stronger each day and more waves each session 🏄‍♂️ just love surfing here and then going home and jumping on the cold surf stick

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/15/2018 at 7:08 PM, big mario said:

Got my fat ass  handed to me today ... and then it thoroughly rag dolled me.  Went back in for a few, got beaten up on my way out, and thought`` tomorrow is another day....

Oh, I thought it was only me who that happened to. I'm getting really good at doing the "rinse cycle".

Nicaragua: I wanted to go there now, but it's not advised by our government. 

Down here in Cabarete Dominican Republic... waves tend every day, not too hot, cheaper than Costa Rica and less time difference. I just need to remember not to get hurt just before the snowboard season...
 

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2 hours ago, philw said:

Oh, I thought it was only me who that happened to. I'm getting really good at doing the "rinse cycle".

Nicaragua: I wanted to go there now, but it's not advised by our government. 

Down here in Cabarete Dominican Republic... waves tend every day, not too hot, cheaper than Costa Rica and less time difference. I just need to remember not to get hurt just before the snowboard season...
 

Sorry to hear about your gov't saying Nicaragua is a no go...then again surfing Pangas with so few people was a real pleasure...almost all western con trolled governments have the same advisory out...fact is, the southern part of the country is actually a sanctuary for the rest of the countries unrest...

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Seen at the Banff film fest last night. I suspect this photographer's phenomenal images have been posted here before, if so, it's well worth seeing again, or for the first time. 

Aspen residents probably know this other much older French guy. Yeah, he's a skier and it's only slightly water related as he was also a sailor. This guy's a hoot. Maybe the French did invent panache.

 

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Bells WSL is going to be insane today. JJ for the win. His casual, ripping style was on point yesterday.

Fox Sports 2 for weak coverage and poor video formatting

WSL app on iPhone and Appletv has been spotty.

last night, had to stream from Facebook to my Apple TV. 

Semi’s and finals!!!

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