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Found 22 results

  1. Finally getting around to clearing out some equipment I have lying around.... All prices negotiable! Buyer pays shipping from US. Raichle 323s, M24 These were my first boots. Still in fine working order, would be a good pair of boots for someone with small feet or a kid. I know there are some experienced riders here who still use them too. Original liners (non moldable). Asking $100. UPZ Flow Liners, M25 (5 printed on the side). Also Low-Profile Tongues. UPZ Flow stock liners. I have the normal tongues as well as low profile to help relieve pressure over my arches. Asking $125 for both tongues included. Ruroc RG1-DX Helmet, M/L Great helmet, a couple years old. It is not compatible with the SHOCKWAVE bluetooth speaker system that came out last year. Never had any significant impacts, comes with mask, legacy goggles, and extra lense. I added fluorescent orange tape for visibility. It is Gaff tape and will come off, any reasonable gunk cleaner should make short work of any residue. Asking $200. Ruroc Magloc Goggles, Size M/L The current lineup of goggles for Ruroc. I bought a new helmet that came with new goggles, so these are extra to me now. Slight scratch in the lense, and the felt is coming off on the top, shouldn't be too hard to re-glue with some foam adhering adhesive. Dog not included! $40 Intuition Pro Tour Liners, M25 Bought these last season by mistake, they were supposed to be the pro wraps. They are a tongue liner that offers a stiff cuff and flexy ankle. Molded once, used only a couple times. Asking $125. Deeluxe Vicious, M26 Stiff carver softie boots by Deeluxe. I bought them a couple seasons ago before realizing that my M26 boots where too big. Used a handful of days. in great shape. 3 adjustable tightening zones with BOA at the ankle, and the liner has a heel harness too. Asking $150 FLOW The Five Bindings, Size Large. Bought 07-08 season, so they have some use and standard wear, but everything is in working order with all hardware. They might be a little flexy for carving, but would serve well still for freeride/ pow. Asking $75 Softie Gear I have some additional old softie stuff (10-15 years old) including 2 basic burton boards, 2 pairs of bindings, and 2 pairs of boots. Not carve worthy, but if anyone wants it let me know and I can give more specs. Otherwise it will probably go on fleabay or just to a thrift shop/ goodwill. SOLD! TD3 SW Regular Bindings Picked these up as a second pair, but found that because of minor manufacturing changes over the year(s) (not sure what year model these are) that they did not fit my tiny M25 UPZ feet without turning one of the blocks around. All in working order, e-pads were shipped to me as shown, but I have an extra 2 blues I can replace that yellow with, blue e-rings, and 3* cants, all hardware. Asking $375 SOLD! TD3 SW SI Bindings Bought these new last season in hopes they might fit my small feet, unfortunately they do not without flipping bails again. Basically in new condition, except for a small marring on one of the blocks when the rag slipped in the vice when looking at switching out the e-pads. They have been carpet used, never actually seen snow though! Yellow e-pads, blue e-rings, 3* cants, all hardware. Asking $400 Deeluxe Suzuka, M26 w/ Intuition Dreamliners, 2 shims per boot. Sold! Fine boots, in good working order. Were my boots for a while but I kept having heel lift due to my narrow heels and I also bought too large. Liners have been molded probably 3 times now. Asking $130 Deeluxe Liners, M25 Sold! Simple wrap liners, heat moldable. Don't remember where I picked them up, heated once, used only a handful of times. Asking $60
  2. SOLD $200 shipped within lower 48 states. F2 Race Titanium bindings size medium fit boots 24.5 - 27.5 (used on my 26.5 UPZ RC10s). Used for one season of about 15 days. Includes all (minus one cover disc) original parts and accessories plus an extra heel/toe lift and additional wedges for more customization of lift and cant. One center cover disc is missing and doesn't affect performance at all. I lost it on the slopes somewhere as has been known to happen with these bindings. Photos here.
  3. slapos

    Sg Bindings

    Got SG bindings for sale. less then 10 days on snow. Got all the boxes, cant/lift sets. Got both bail sets for UPZ/Deeluxe and MS/NW boots. Ton of additional screws $290 plus shipping. slightly negotiable
  4. Looking through my boxes of stuff I found I had not sold these bindings! So they gotta go! Snowpro Step-in FAST bindings RACE (size Large) w/everything including the leash, minty (like n*w! only carpet carved). For sale over at UPZ for $229.00 right now. Ideally I'd like to trade for a set of large F2/Proflex style standard (not step-in) plate bindings. Link to photos- https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZaP07X1TEL3iVFZF2
  5. Now there's no "Bomber" whom we rightly had to respect, I think I can ask this question.... There are multiple variants of the standard F2 binding out there, but has anyone any reviews/ experience/ comparative information on them? I like to avoid riding stuff which is more than a decade old, so I ought to buy some more bindings and I'm wondering which will work best. The ones I know of are: Standard F2 Titanium bindings, same as I've used for the last 20 years and which work flawlessly for me. They come in two sizes of which I use the smaller. You can get blue anodized ones thi season, it seems, as well as the standard black. The CNC version of the above. These are pretty and maybe I should get some to put on my bookshelves, but they're not commonly used in races I think so perhaps they have "stiffness" problems as per some other machined bindings. They're likely heavier and more expensive than (1). The Virus "Power Lock" stuff... they look similar in principle to the F2, but apparently are "machined from a solid block" of whatever so perhaps are stiffer? I'm not really looking for that, and I'm kind of suspicious of Virus as they make those extremely narrow boards which isn't my thing. These come with a baseplate - is that mandatory? How high does that put the boot over the board? I kind of like simple and low, hence F2 Ti Race not F2 Titanflex. Kessler's F2 variant. These have white handles and no step-in variant, but otherwise look like stock F2 bindings. Is that what they are? These come in 3 sizes, suggesting they're not just a re-brand of the F2s. Are there any more, perhaps South-East Asian variants I should look at? I'm just interested in any actual users of these and similar bindings... what are the main characteristics and what do I need to know which isn't obvious?....
  6. Hi, I'm looking to buy a pair of Catek OS2 short plate bindings with Intec step-in receivers (not standard bails). Anyone have a pair they're willing to part with, or a lead on one? I've been searching with Ebay and Google for a year, but haven't found a single pair to buy. Shipping could be to USA or to Germany. Cheers, -Dave
  7. Lightly used snow pro bindings. $100 plus shipping. SOLD
  8. I need F2 race bindings large .... if you have It....... price and all info. TANKS.
  9. F2's 2018/2019 Catalog is available here- http://anyflip.com/vhkh/uyhc If they made hardboots they would be a one stop shop for alpine snowboarding (hard or soft). Heck they even have a splitboard and bindings (pg. 38-39)! Interesting items in the catalog- Page. 14/15- Complete Softboot carving setups- F2 Socks, F2 Boots, F2 Bindings (flow like), F2 Boards Impressive! Page 23- Extreme carving board (168, 22cm waist, 11scr) Pg 27- Powder Freecarver (Axxis hmmn where have I heard that name before?) (164, 23.8cm waist, 9scr) pg 45- Sandwich Carbon S-Flex Absorber Plate They call it "New System" so I'm wondering what's changed since 2007/2008? Looks the same to me. pg 45- F2 branded Allflex Plate... pg 46- Ski Poles for Knapton (F2 really does cover all the trends!)
  10. Looking to upgrade from my (‘07?) Burton Missions to something more responsive and with more stiffness. Boot size is 8.5 and I still use old school Palmer Power Plates for a bit of rise, but further eliminating boot out to lower binding angles is always a priority - currently I think I’m around 36-21 and can still wash out on heelsides easily with a 250mm waist. So shaving a cm here and there would be great - I find the Missions have a lower plastic heelcup and an over-the-toe strap that serve to add drag material on both sides. I’ve heard good things about the Drake, Flow and Ride, and can get them all fairly easily - but I can only check out the Flow in-store. I’ve checked out the Cartels which may do, but they also seem to have a big low heelcup. Has anyone compared these bindings? I’m leaning towards the Flows but do read some mixed reviews about how well the straps secure boots. Many thanks for all input!
  11. Looking to purchase some used F2 Titanium bindings size large w/standard bails. Thanks. Thanks BOL member!
  12. I'm brand new to hard boot riding. A friend of mine gave me one of his old Burton Factory Prime boards. I'm now on the hunt for bindings and boots. I'm looking for a 29.5 boot. Ideally if I could get both from one person that would be great, but I will take what I can get.
  13. Looking for a pair of OS2 Catek bindings. Don't care what color, but would prefer with D3 elastomers. Please provide pictures and price.
  14. It would appear that changes to the front binding angle could affect where the center of mass is over the board, nose to tail. For example, as the front binding angle decreases the front heel moves slightly forward towards the nose of the board. Could this affect the ideal location (setback) of where the front binding is mounted? Recently, I experimented with lowering my front binding angle from 54 to 51 degrees after noticing that at 54 degrees the toes of my front foot are well inside the edge of the board. At 51 degrees both the heel and toe of my front foot are at the edges of the board. (For reference, I wear size 25 boots. Board is Pure Boarding Two: 158 cm length by 22.6 cm waist.) With this change, I discovered the following, which I did not like: the board had a tendency to want to turn towards toe-side while skating one foot heel-side turns on the flats required more effort to get the board to turn The characteristics above made me think about moving the front binding back towards the tail slightly (I'm currently 1 cm back from center inserts). Because I didn't want to spend too much time tweaking this weekend (it was crazy cold out!), I simply moved the binding angle back to 54 degrees and confirmed the above issues went away. Next time out, I'm going to experiment with 51 degrees on the angle again and also move the front binding a little further back. Has anyone experienced having to adjust the setback after tweaking the front binding angle? Does this make any sense? Cheers and Happy 2018!
  15. mtness

    Bomber TD1 parts

    2 Heel bails and 2 3% plates for TD1s. $15 plus shipping
  16. Used pair of Trench Digger bindings for sale. I bought them for my son to use this year for racing and his coach is recommending a different binding. Asking $350.00 plus shipping.
  17. I am no hard boot historian, but I am fairly sure that alpine snowboard bindings were originally designed to accommodate ski boots. This was understandable back in the early days of the sport, when many of us actually rode in ski boots - but there are many disadvantages associated with this solution: The sole of the boot is long and narrow, to suit skis rather than snowboards. Hence the lever constraining the boot transversely is very short, and the lever constraining the boot longitudinally is very long. Thus it is hard to control the transverse flex, and there is little longitudinal flex available. Virtually all of the longitudinal flex is handled by the cuff of the boot. Neither my boots, nor my ankles really enjoy going through the range of motion that they are often subjected to. The interface between the boot and the binding are also the walking surfaces of the boot. These are not precision surfaces, and they deteriorate over time. So as a thought for the day, imagine a compact binding that attaches to the middle / sides of the hard boot rather than the ends. This brings the following advantages: The boot could be made shorter. The binding could have a pivot, allowing it to flex fore and aft, maybe offering a significant range of movement. The boot could then be simpler, as the binding would handle more of the longitudinal movement. Less need for complex spring systems in the boot. The interface would be more stable transversely, with potential for harder or softer side flex as required. Elastomeric pads could enable fine tuning of longitudinal and transverse flex, and could be made available in a range of hardnesses and rebound rates. The walking surfaces could be wider, more rubbery and properly grippy, and therefore safer and more comfortable for walking. The interface between binding and boot could be very precise, would not be walked on, and hopefully could incorporate a slick step-in function. I would also like to be able to adjust cant and lift simply by turning knobs while wearing mittens, but maybe I am being greedy now. There are also some obvious obstacles looming: The cost of developing new boots and new bindings at the same time would be considerable. Riders would need to buy new boots and new bindings at the same time. It is difficult to build in flex and adjustability in several directions, without making the binding bulky or high. Or expensive. However, I think such a system, if properly designed, could also work for wider boards and flatter angles, i.e. 99 percent of the snowboard market. This would make the development effort worthwhile financially, if not spiritually. But these wide-board folk would need to accept that buckles make more sense than laces, and I am not sure they are ready yet. Unless we can throw in some pull-on covers that make the boots look like park-ready lace-up soft boots? P.S. I have been on this forum before, so I am well aware that there are genuine hard boot historians out there, who presumably will tell me that this has been tried before, and did not work...
  18. Just bought a F2 Silberpfeil. I like to carve but kinda new with it. What bindings you advice? F2 Intec Titanflex - Intec Titanium or maybe F2 CNC race Alpine? I've Deeluxe boots
  19. Hi all, I'm brand new to this forum, but not new to carving board (first learn to snow board on a demo Burton factory prime in '91 and been snowboard ever since). Long story shorts, I currently ride a vintage Burton factory prime (157) with a stiffer soft, 3-strap bindings with stiffer solt boots. Well, the binding finally gave out last weekend (loosing the top 3rd strap from back leg). I see it as a good opportunity to move into the hard boot world finally. Btw, I always felt my setup above is/was to soft and sloppy at transferring from edge to edge. Totally clueless about the hard boot setup...and looking for help around the understanding around it all like: Are all hard boot bindings pretty standard? (Universal, so it will work with all hard snowboard boots) I know snowboard hard boots are different from ski boots (smaller foot print).... What are things I should be considered with the hard boots. I always thought my soft boot setup is pretty sloppy when it comes to the heel - toe edge transfer. Any insights would be appreciated.
  20. hi, maybe some insiders here who've took turn or two on them, or at least know what the point in producing (maybe better quality, but) clone of f2 race for some big extra EURs?
  21. Transworld Business article (some really good pictures of the boot and interface in the article)- http://www.grindtv.com/transworld-business/evolution-of-the-step-in-binding-burtons-chris-cunningham-weighs-in/#MfreG7dw44TMxLb6.97 Another article feature Terje and a short video of him stepping out of them- https://onboardmag.com/snowboard-gear/gear-news-and-previews/new-burton-step-ins-2018.html Burton's unlisted Step-On promo video- Playing with them (Alex Andrews)- Note- I have no affiliation with Burton.
  22. Hello everybody, I would ask for an opinion about something strange I'm experiencing with my stance setup. I've got a Kessler 168 (20cm waisted), TD2 Bindings and Track 700 boots. I used to ride with 3° cant disk on the front (all for lifting the front toe) 6° on the back (all for lifting the back heel) 57°/53° 48cm stance. It was comfortable for the riding but I noticed that my front leg was almost straight on the backside carve (and I don't know if it's right since it's, for sure, ugly to be seen). Then I tried the following: 0° cant disk on the front 6° cant disk on the back (at 70°, so splitted between cant/heel-lift) same angles and stance. Everything is properly for the frontside (and the position seems to be visually better) but... while I try to carve backside, I feel as if my rear foot would be trying to open itself (as if the tip of the foot would like to go toward the tail of the board, blocked only by the boot shell, producing pain at the ankle). This is the only bad feeling (nothing on the front foot, hips, etc). It seems that it can be solved with lower angle (following what the back foot would do) but... with 53° I'm already on the edges. Any idea about?! The more I bend the knees (as it should be in the turn progression), the strong my foot tip try to "open". Thanks a lot for every opinion/suggestion!
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