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Jack M

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Jack M last won the day on April 13

Jack M had the most liked content!

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  • Website URL
    www.alpinesnowboarder.com

Details

  • Location
    Sugarloaf
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Sugarloaf
  • Occupation?
    Software Developer, Photographer
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Winterstick Squaretail Plus 185, Winterstick Squaretail Plus 170, Winterstick Squaretail Plus 163, Kessler Custom Alpine 180, Kessler Alpine 185, F2 Speedster World Cup 163, F2 Speedster Proto 163, vintage Coiler 196 Super-G, Winterstick TB 172
  • Current Boots Used?
    Mountain Slope Point .951 Standards, Burton Step-On Ion
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Bomber TD3. 6 degree Toe lift on front foot, 3 degree heel lift on back foot. Burton Step-On
  • Snowboarding since
    1988
  • Hardbooting since
    1992

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  1. Here. https://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/topic/40762-gilmour-bias/?do=findComment&comment=415270
  2. Centering the boot on the binding and centering the binding on the board is a good practice, but not the only way. Then both your feet are aligned and levering the board on the same axis. Due to the hourglass figure of the board, this usually results in your front foot toe and rear foot heel being inside the edge of the board - "underhang". You can compensate for this by moving the front foot toe and heel blocks forward, and the rear foot toe and heel blocks rearward. This way you can really geek out and zero in on a stance that minimizes both binding angle and underhang. John Gilmour of Madd Snowboards stamps his name on this as "Gilmour Bias" but he didn't invent it. Maybe he was the first to describe it online. You can search that term here and see his thread about it. I've tried it (before reading about it) and I'm not sure it amounts to a hill of beans for my riding. YMMV
  3. Don't take this the wrong way but I can tell from your binding angles that you never used this board the way it was meant to be ridden. These boards are for carving. That means letting the sidecut of the board slice clean lines in the snow with no steering or skidding. Not just going fast. If you have any interest in getting into this kind of riding, you've got one of the best boards for it. Give it another go? Here's an example of what I mean. Pardon the questionable soundtrack. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MC7HWs3kPjs&t=12s
  4. As winter in the northern hemisphere draws to a close, it gives me great pleasure to say that together, the subscribers and advertisers of AlpineSnowboarder.com, along with PowerRide softboot tongues, have donated over $4000 in the past 12 months to our partners, the US Snowboard Racing Team (USSRT), and the United States of America Snowboard and Freeski Association (USASA). Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. If you are not a subscriber yet, you can remove most ads from your browsing here with as little as $3/month or $35/year. Click here for more info.
  5. That is putting it nicely. As long as we're nitpicking, the hands/arms are rather deliberate, like he knows he's putting on a clinic for the camera. Which is fine, it's a good example of not being lazy.
  6. Agreed. That is the standard. I mean I can name several other exemplary riders, members (and moderators) here, but this video is an easy choice.
  7. It was unreal!! https://www.jmphotocraft.com/Events/Eclipse-2024
  8. ZipFit and Intuition have liners with tongues.
  9. Oh yeah, Edwin Coratti is a great rider.
  10. Jack M

    Hydration

    You might look into electrolyte powders like Skratch Labs or LMNT ("element"). The idea is that the electrolytes and minerals allow your body to absorb water better. Then you might not need to carry and manage so much water.
  11. Yes, very sad, an outstanding veteran instructor. Fortunately I believe he should recover.
  12. I suspect nobody is truly carving beyond 70 degrees.
  13. I intended the Winterstick Squaretail Plus 170 to replace my Kessler 168. I spec'd the sidecut at 9-12-11m, based on Kessler's published "sidecut range" of 8-12m. The first 170 was too soft for me and turned much tighter. At least as tight as my F2 WC163 (radius 9.8m) at the time if not tighter. It held a great edge thanks to extra torsional reinforcement, but it was redundant with the 163 which was not the desired outcome. I sold it and had another 170 made stiffer and I tweaked the sidecut a little and it was a success.
  14. Very important. The calculation of turn radius = sidecut radius times cosine of edge angle is just an approximation. Cosine of 90 degrees is 0. I think it describes the "projection" of the sidecut onto a flat surface. But because the length of the snowboard does not change, and because it sinks into the snow some amount, and because of flex, it's not that simple. I believe the actual radius is slightly tighter. My maths aren't up to the task.
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