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TimW

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TimW last won the day on January 14

TimW had the most liked content!

Details

  • Location
    Netherlands
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Obertauern, Serfaus
  • Occupation?
    Engineer
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Only ride boards that I built myself nowadays
  • Current Boots Used?
    UPZ, Northwave Domain
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Bomber & F2 plates, Ride El Hefe
  • Snowboarding since
    1987
  • Hardbooting since
    1987

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  1. I don't think UPZs are narrower / more problematic at your pressure point. If you go UPZ, give the Flo liners that come with the boot a chance. My initial impression was bad, they felt cardboard like. After a week they felt alright, after two weeks good, now I think they are great.
  2. You are on the right track. The key to freecarving steeper terrain is to get the board carving in a tight turn directly after initation. For this you need to angulate your board, and apply pressure directly in the beginning of the turn. Once the board turns, you have the centripetal provides you the pressure. If you don't actively pressure the board early in the turn, pressure builds slowly, the first part of the turn becomes longer and you gain more speed. Tightening the first part of your turn helps to control the speed.
  3. I have the xc12 and I like them, but would have been perfectly happy with a bit more stiffness as well. I am not heavy(180lbs) but carve hard. The thing I like is they come with a different spring box with more travel, which is the right amount for me. The standard springs are very soft. Given that you softened the head stratos I'd guess they would be stiff enough for you. A deeluxe 325 in walk mode would be similar in stiffness fore-aft, but is a lot stiffer side to side.
  4. It is 30 years ago, but I have had this and it was caused by flexing the boot so far sideways in the binding that the boot pressed against the the steel of the toe bail. This pushed the bail down and flicked the lever open. A wider toe bail solved the issue.
  5. TimW

    Hydration

    I'd say get used to the camelbag, after a while you won't notice it anymore. I got so used to riding with a backpack that I always ride with one, also on 100% resort days. I prefer it to stuffing things in my pockets. So to me riding with a tiny camelbak does not seem an issue. For MTB I have an Evoc cc 3L pack that is really minimalist and flat, was a bit pricy though.
  6. One day before 50 I still setup my angles as I did 30 years ago. I setup the lowest angle with no overhang on the rear boot, and then 0-5 degrees higher on the front boot. The amount of splay I prefer seems to randomly vary over time.
  7. Titanal is old, Titanal skis were around in the '70s... That is not snowboards off course, but Volkl Renntigers and Oxygen Protons had titanal, that was late 90's IIRC?
  8. My Nidecker freeride stance would be 56+4=60cm. So what I rode on the split. I'll give that another shot. Out of curiosity I checked my stance width on my kite surfboards. That is in the range of 75cm strapless, 70cm strapped (surfboard). So more mobility, wider stance. Makes sense.
  9. I normally ride 52cm / 20.5" on hardboots and 54cm / 21.2" on softboots. I am 191cm / 6'3" tall. Compared to common softboot stance widths that is very narrow I guess. I recently rode a splitboard which was setup to something like a 60cm / 23.5" stance. That seems more normal nowadays for my heigth. It felt stable but very rigid. I think the true reason for those wide stances of the softboot dudes is to prevent their pants dropping to their ankles. But I will experiment with a wider stance for softboots anyway, just in case the majority is not stupid after all.
  10. The problem with looking up is that I have to lengthen my transitions to be able to do that, especially on steeps. That widens my path quite a bit and makes it less predictable for skiers coming behind, so it is not just beneficial. A half circle turn is about 3 seconds, 4 turns between looking is 12 seconds. A 90km/hr straightliner covers 300m in 12 seconds....
  11. Am alternative way of checking behind you: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cyp7jc8s2M0/?igsh=MWxrZHNjMXNnc2R2OQ==
  12. Part of the issue is that many skiers simply do not understand carving, and they simply do not know how to anticipate. We are some alien entity, UFOs with a maneuverability that they cannot grasp. Amplified by the fact that many consider themselves fighter jets when they are actually a Cessna. Check the guy who hits Slapos. He actually does not go very fast, he tries to go around him, but he simply completely misjudges it. Recently I overheard two women commenting on my riding. One: "That looks amazing", the other: "I get motion sickness from watching it"
  13. Do you mean the edge protector or the other product they are offering? That is a very difficult to repair properly. Edge, base, sidewall and laminate will all be damaged. I don't see how you can really fix that. You would have to remove edge and base, replace part of the laminate and possibly sidewall, and then put in a new edge and base. But then you are better off building a new board. Like Carvin Marvin said, sealing it (if the edge disbonded from the sidewall) and grinding it down so nothing protrudes may be the best solution. Could well be better and stronger than doing a more elaborate repair. Where is it on the board? Tip, middle, tail? If it is between your feet you're unlikely to notice it at all.
  14. Typically ABS is used, e.g.: https://www.skibaumarkt.de/en/product/tipspacer-white-3-mm/ Googling snowboard building materials will give you US based shops as well. I normally use base material (UHMWPE) as a spacer myself myself because I prefer thinner material. Not much to it, so any plastic that does not turn brittle when cold would do. Just make sure to quickly run a flame over it (after sanding) so it bonds to the epoxy. For alpine boards I prefer aluminum (https://www.skibaumarkt.de/en/product/ski-tail-alu-330-x-40/) for robustness.
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