Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


philw last won the day on December 26 2018

philw had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

231 Excellent

1 Follower

About philw

  • Rank


  • Location
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Ski Rossendale
  • Occupation?
    software & other stuff
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Kessler 156 SL
    Powder boards as available...
  • Current Boots Used?
    Atomic Backland Carbon
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    F2 Race Ti
  • Snowboarding since
  • Hardbooting since

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I thought a fair bit about how to get a better angle on that back foot... options seemed to be: Ride in walk mode As above, works ok, but seems a bit unsatisfactory and may cause me trouble in different snow conditions or on piste. Modify the boot angle adjuster to get more lean out of it There's a little metal plate (see centre of image) which could probably be augmented with something which has a larger offset. I was thinking about this and a mate with metallurgy skills, but then... Just use more heel lift I have a few pairs of old F2 bindings, so I've no shortage of plastic F2 wedges. Here below on the rear foot is a "double bubble" heel wedge, which appears to give me more lean as the image shows. It's hard to be sure of the precise angle from a picture, but Photoshop tells me the front is at about 77 degrees upright where as the back is 65, so a fair bit of difference now. I'll try it next season. It looks a bit "high heel" kinky, but maybe it'll do the job. I cut a couple of M6 bolts to length and replaced the original shorter bolts, using the same t-nuts on the bottom. If this is too much I can always dump some of the wedges until it's the right stack height for me, adjusting the bolt length at the same time with a file.
  2. As they said... I've used ski boots in the original F2/Proflex bindings, and again this season I'm using AT (ski) boots in the current gen F2 non-step-in-bindings. They work fine, the fit's actually better with the new bindings than the old ones, not sure why, but it's fine.
  3. That sounds right, thanks.
  4. Does anyone know what the stock / factory angles for the Kessler SL are? I need to give mine a tune and I'm wondering what the angles ought to be... Anyone know? ---- Gratuitous heli image just because...
  5. I guess I'll get modded if this is too political, but to non-Americans I think you'll find that the US appears particularly tolerant of blatant white collar crime at the moment.
  6. Playing with my old Dump Truck and new Atomic Backland Carbon boots in Iceland last week. Thoughts: You can see in some of this that I was having trouble "disciplining" the front of the board - it was chattering at high loads. I eventually worked out that was probably because the stance on the dump truck is set-back for powder, and this wasn't powder. I could have ridden it on my SL board. I shifted the stance forward about a cm and had no more hassle with that - but I was done with video by that time, and the snow conditions were somewhat different (wetter), so I'm not really sure I have that nailed. I could not previously get enough forward lean out of my back boot. I tried a "shim", following very useful "try a piece of old pizza" advice from here. That didn't work as it moved around... it would need fastening to the boot at least. It felt a lot like a shim, too, I wasn't hugely keen on it. I tried "walk mode" on the back foot, and that worked fine - it turns out that I don't rely on the back of the back boot for support (I'm pretty sure I do rely on the front one, although maybe I'm just beautifully balanced...). Future plans: See if I can cobble more forward lean from the boot, by changing the anchor point for the walk lever, or replacing it. Think about switching from 3-degrees of heel lift on back to 6. Forget about it and ride with the back foot in walk mode. Stiffness-wise I've no issues with these, they're nice and stiff, the way I like it. They're small, and I may get cold feet in winter, we shall see...
  7. And an update.. I thought I may as well try walk mode on the rear foot... that works pretty well, it's a feel which is kind of soft, but it turns out that on reasonably soft snow (this is not powder!) I don't need the fore-aft rigidity of the rear boot much. I switched that one to walk and then forgot about it. The riding was better today, but that could have been the snow as much as this change. That said, I rode one 1000m pitch which was frozen sastrugi all the way down and the boots were fine. Hmm.
  8. I spent a week in Iceland riding end of season snow. It's been a poor snow year here, with refrozen rained on rotten snow. The top-to-bottom (about 1,000 vertical meters down to sea level) vertical give a binary transition from "too hard" to "too soft". The beer's expensive too. And don't get me started on the pickled Herring. Anyway, boot-wise, it's not really a fair test, but I've not really noticed the boots, which is a good thing. They seem kind of small, and I worry that I may get cold toes in seriously cold conditions... I may end up buying heaters for the dead of winter, which kind of defeats the object of saving weight. Stiffness-wise I've no problems - I'm running these with F2 Race Ti bindings which are fairly flexible and although the shells are stiff, there's play in the inners too. I'm a hard booter, and these are hard boots. As I probably said before, the forward-lean range isn't great, and I like my back leg with lots of lean. I tried to use a shim (from an old Indy boot) to push the top of my back calf forward.... that worked, but it felt a bit wrong and in practice moved about as I rode, eventually being ejected into my pants leg! I gave up on that, and just rode, which worked ok. I did have some issues (in this snow) with "disciplining the front of my board" - that is, the front of my board was chattering a bit on some of the softer snow. I have that on video, and although a soft booter had a similar issue, I think it's my set-up as I'd not expect it. I tried to push more on my back foot which I think helped. Conclusion: I still need to do something about the back leg forward-lean before I'm happy. I don't want to dick with my set-up in the middle of a heli week, but future plans: I have a standard three-degree wedge under the back foot on these F2s. Once I'm home I'll switch that up to six-degrees, which may solve the problem. Maybe I can drill the shell to get more lean out of the back boot. Phantom are supposed to be producing some spring kits which may be usable to do what I want, although I don't really need the spring thing or the weight. I can probably get someone to make me a bigger bit of aluminium than the standard "walk" lever, which will do the job.
  9. I've met a few people who have that reaction, on seeing the Kessler logo - people from that village do get about, it seems. I shall be taking my own Kessler to Iceland tomorrow, although only as a backup in case I can't get into the back country. I'll look out for Dario.
  10. philw


    I agree - from the perspective of anyone who doesn't drag themselves through the snow like that it does look odd. The trick with spray however... is to kick up the spray, then turn back through it. In which case you could well be carving as you emerge from your cloud The other trick is to make one big turn, and count down to it so the photographer knows it's coming.
  11. Pretty much every time I meet someone I've not ridden before I get that - they see the boots, not the board, which in my case is like you mentioned a "powder specific board", usually more dedicated power than whatever they're on.
  12. I've been grounded by my builders running late... I'm aiming to get to Iceland at the end of April, but so far I've not had any more snow I'm afraid... I shall certainly post back once I know for sure.
  13. My Titanflex came with all the bits straight out of the box, no need for extra bits, it was all there, I just left the "bumper" bits out and I was good to go. I may have used standard 4x4 bolts rather than the ones the bindings came with, can't remember.
  14. Obviously asphyxiation is a risk in both cases, that wasn't my point. You know how they tell you to carry a metal avalanche shovel because the plastic ones can't always cut the debris? In contrast, tree well snow is light and loose, which is why it falls down with you. The snow is different. I'm not a guide, but the buddy system isn't really optional for heli guests. That Powder article is interesting, but it reads a bit like "advertorial" and doesn't reflect my experience as described. The only place you can't fly with air bag canisters is the USA; there's no problem in Europe or Canada. Which is partly why the none-gas operated bags have appeared. His Cirque 35 is 1075 g plus the weight of the Avalung. My airbag is 1500g including the full cartridge.
  • Create New...