modifiede30
Member-
Posts
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Joined
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Website URL
http://www.theracingvein.com
Details
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Location
Taxachusetts
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Home Mountain/Resort?
Anything that doesn't have moguls
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Occupation?
"Side" Business Owner/HMO Finances
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Current Boards in your Quiver
Oxygen SL, Nidecker Proto, Nidecker Extreme, Generics SL, Heavy Metals (Lizard design)
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Current Boots Used?
UPZ
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Current bindings and set-up?
Catek OS
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Snowboarding since
2000
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Hardbooting since
2000
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modifiede30's Achievements
Contributor (3/6)
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Getting rid of a few older boards - not sure they're all older than 2006 but figured it'd be easier to list them in a single thread. 1 - NIdecker Escape - freestyle board 165cm 2 - Oxygen Proton - SL board - 156cm 3 - Heavy Tools Lizard - 165cm All 3 have seen their days on edge. Only the Nidecker shows any sign of damage as pictured on the tip - has been repaired but isn't pretty but is a very functional board and a blast to run all over the place. The SL is super quick and tight - fun board on most terrain. The Heavy Tools is a narrowest of them all, and fast/stiff. Its been ridden the least of them all by far. I'll take any reasonable offers on any of these boards that's over $75+shipping. All Boards All Board Bottoms Proton Tail Nidecker Tail Nidecker Size Nidecker Tip Damage Lizard Size If these links don't work I'll be embedding them later tonight.
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What size is the smaller one all the way to the left?
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Hey, did these sell?
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she's in a 6.5 women's shoe.
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I was looking at 126 at first, but it seems the more I look the longer I go - last time I looked it put me at 133/134. I think 139 might be a bit long though - she's only 90lbs and she's pretty small - very athletic though so maybe a 139 would work. What's it look like - she's giving me a hard time about it not looking like a boys board.
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How quickly could you ship - and what do you want for it? We're leaving Saturday morning so it'd ideally be here by Friday - I'm in MA. Also, my daughter is 4,10 and about 90lbs. Is this too small for her - don't know much about standard boards. She's only been on a board once so this would be her learning board so shorter is probably better.
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Looking for a basic snowboard for my daughter - non-carving type. Probably needs to be about 130cm in length given her size/weight/abilities. If you have something you want to get rid of let me know - need it quick or I'll probably take a ride over to Play it again Sports.
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I learned to carve on the Nitro you have pictured - same size too. Great board!
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Maybe that's why White dropped out of one of the events.
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Anyone a regular at Seven Springs - haven't been there since I was probably 17 - more than that many years ago. I'll be going over our kid's school break Feb 17-25th - if anyone rides there and can provide warnings or cares to ride one day let me know.
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We have one of the hitch mounted boxes but they're not large enough to carry skis or boards. Never had a chance to get over to rack attack today - maybe tomorrow.
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My family has been using a hitch mounted ski rack because our new car has a glass roof that covers so much space that its almost impossible to mount anything up top. The rack we have now is a nightmare on skis/boards - all the sand/dirt and salt just collect on all of the components and if not cleaned off, destroy the edges (don't ask how I know). I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions for protecting the skis/boards while mounted in the back exposed to the elements. I have thought of typical bags, but the thought of those flapping around in the wind for 9 hours of travel is less than appealing. I was thinking I might just go to a shipping store, buy a big role of the plastic wrap, and wrap/tape them up before mounting them to the rack. I'd think a couple layers of the stuff would withstand the traveling. I'm going to RackAttack today to check on any other options we might have for a roof rack but I'm not looking forward to dumping $1k on a new system (roof rack and enclosed ski carrier). I've heard ski bags can withstand the elements while traveling with them - but only for a year or so, which doesn't sound very efficient.
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I started almost the same time I learned to snowboard. Around 2000, my wife and I were at Waterville Valley and I decided to take a snowboard lesson - I had skied since probably 1985. I grew up skateboarding - half-pipes but mainly old school street boarding - snowboarding seemed like a better fit so I took a lesson. The snowboarding came to me really fast - by days end, I was pretty comfortable. That same weekend, I happened to see this guy cruising on the edges of the slopes on a snowboard but he was much more graceful than the typical boarder I had seen to that point. I happened to run into the hard booter I had seen in the bar that weekend and while talking I learned about carving in very basic terms. Within a few weeks of that weekend, I purchased a soft boot setup with step-in bindings and a carving board. About 6 months later, I purchased a set of Burton hard-boots, and the rest is history. I've been in hard boots exclusively since and haven't stepped into skis or soft boots since (except a month ago when we had a large snow in VT and I decided to go powder riding for the first time). I can't exactly explain my reasons for wanting to carve more than traditional soft booting - I suppose it started as an interest in how much more refined/graceful it seemed - much closer to carving things up on skis which was my style with skis. As I started to learn, my interest grew to include a need to conquer the carve, the inherent speed and the exhilaration of holding an edge. I could probably go on about the various reasons for my dedication to carving and how it developed, but I have to admit that had I not run into the carver back in that bar, and had a chance to learn a little about it, I'm not sure I'd have a carving passion today. Simply stated, the more the carving community shares some of these reasons for carving with those who express and interest, the larger this community will likely grow.
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A while back I had found a good reference source for binding setup - stance, being the one that was always the hardest for me to figure out. Once I got the stance, I usually set the binding cant/angles to what was most comfortable given the need to avoid overhanging the edges. Anyone have a reference? I read through the carver's almanac and it was close but not what I had found previously. Any help finding any additional reference points would be helpful.
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Any of this still available? I could use a set for the new board I just purchased.